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post #1 of (permalink) Old 10-17-1999, 08:20 AM
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steering shaft

One of my friends broke his stock steering shaft coupler on friday night, we were going to put it back together with a Pto U-joint like my truck
has, but the place that sells them was out of stock and they were backordered..So to the self serve junkyard we went..I looked
at every vehicles steering shaft, and found that some not all chevy vans com with a double u-joint with a slip shaft in between them.
One side is 3/4 with a notch and a flat spot..the others is 1" flatted shaft..To match the flatted shaft I grabbed a steering shaft from
an Amc gremlin..I took the stock joint, removed the guts, a 3"piece of sched 40 1" steel pip and reduced its outside diameter .010 to fit inside the stock joint and press fitted it into the stock joint. I then cut the gremlin shaft to give me 3 inch of 1"(OD)round plus the 1" of of square(it transitions into
the square) reduced its wall about .005 and press fitted it into the the 1 Sched 40 pipe already in the stock joint..this gave me the flat
to slide into the gm ujoint on it went, i marked for the through bolt notch and notched the 1" flat with the die-grinder..
then inserted the bolt and tightened..I then cross drilled the stock joint box at 90 degrees and bolted through the 1" sched 40 and 1" od
and put 2 grade 8 5/16 bolts though it.. Then I took the assembly out to the truck pinned it onto the steerin box and marked where
the new u joint assembly meets up with the upper part of the stock shaft, after cutting it to lenght, I ground the required flat spot on it
and the notch for the clamp bolt, and of course bolted it together..I installed it on the truck..No binding, no play, just tight steering
I wish I had a digital camera around here still.. Total cost not including tools was $9.32(including tax). required tools Is a good saw
like a sawzall ,chopsaw or bandsaw, a drill press(or drill if you are good with one) and a diegrinder. I used my lathe to turn the pipe
down but a die grinder can be used to fit the pipe , I used it for the clamp notches though.. Once painted the piece looks totally
factory..Its trick enough that I am going back to the junkyard today to get enough shafts to biuld 4 more..Maxt

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 10-17-1999, 01:35 PM
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Re: steering shaft

Max, I am about to change my steering box to the Steer and Gear 3 1/3 ratio. Do you use the PTO coupler because it is a lot stronger? What other reasons are there? Since I do not have the tools to do what you did, would you advise me as to whether I should use the PTO coupler to connect up my new box? If so, could you tell me what to order, and where to get one. Thanks a bunch. Ross BTW, I'm just about to do the engine and most of my advice has been to use the Mopar shaft. Whaddayathink?

post #3 of (permalink) Old 10-17-1999, 02:58 PM
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Re: steering shaft

Ross I was using the pto because it was the same Od as the dodge shaft.. and had no way of connectig the u joint to the box without welding
this other method just uses it as a coupler, it becomes rigid with the cross bolting..If you had a hacksaw and and file you could biuld this shaft it would just take longer...Maxt

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 10-17-1999, 04:09 PM
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Re: steering shaft

Thanks, Max. I have to get a new coupler, so I thought I'd ask. Steer and Gear will supply one at a very reasonable price, though. Rosss\

post #5 of (permalink) Old 10-21-1999, 07:49 PM
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Re: steering shaft

Black iron pipe is very weak and brittle. I would recommend using genuine steel tubing instead. I know its not as readily available, but its a whole lot safer.

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