Re: banshee cooling
Stock main jets are #200, pilot jets are #25. Since you have modifications to your bike, you should have bigger main jets. The jets will have the number indicating their size stamped on them. You just have to look closely.
To make a jetting reccomendation for you, i need to know what elevation you ride at. It makes a big difference. So far you told me you have bigger pistons, a milled head with 19cc domes. You also said you have 320 main jets and 35 pilot jets right? You said your plugs were white. That means you are running too lean(not enough fuel) So im assuming you have the stock lid on the stock air box, and stock pipes. If all that is correct, or incorrect, let me know.
If run with no lid on the air box and or aftermarket pipes, you will also need bigger main jets. Im not a fan of larger pilot jets. It made my bike stall and foul plugs at low speed like crazy.
Since you have the stock airbox for now, it is a bit of a chore to change jets.
First, drain the carbs(theres a little phillips head screw on the bottom of the carbs accessible from the left hand side of the bike).
Next remove the rear fender and plastic foot guard extensions. Remove the silencers(i never had stock pipes, so it may be neccessary to remove the stock head pipes as well).
Next, remove the coolant resivoir that rides on the back of the air box, being careful and removing the cooolant lines and electrical wires from the side of the air box clips(right side).
Next, loosen the clamps on the air box to carbs, and remove the air box. This is a real pain the way i remember it. You have to first push forward because there are some little tabs on the frame that hook to the sides of the air box. You will get well aquainted with those the first time you do this. And you will do it several times till you get the jetting right.
Next, loosent the clamps that hold the carbs on to the inake boot.
Pull the carbs, and take the left one, and tilt it on its side(the cross choke tube will seperate at this time, but its no big deal) remove the float bowl with the 4 phillips head screws. Carefull of the floats.
You will see the main jet in the middle. Its a 6mm hex. Take the little white plastic deal that surrounds it off 1st. It just slips off. Unscrew the old jet, install the new one. Do not overtighten it! ITs brass.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Now for some air box upgrades...
1st one i did was to pull the lid off. When you do that, the stock(crappy) filter has no support. I got the KN filter with outerwear and the Pro Design mount that bolts securely the front of the air box. Im sending a pic of that.
That better than stock for seals at that point, and lets way more air into the motor.
It can still leak in between the middle of the intake between the forward side of the filter and the housing. It is still a pain to remove for jetting purposes however. WHat i did was remove the airbox all together, and install clamp on KN filters with outwerwears. See my next post for a pic of that.
Now jet changes are easy, and i have access to the rear shock. When changing jets, i simply remove the filters and the seat(not the plastic or the pipes) and its a done deal.
Another upgrade is the Toomey 2 into 1 intake with an outerwear. That would me my next choice if i didnt use the clamp on KN filters. The Toomeys claim to fame is more low end torque due to "restoration of needed intract length".