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post #4 of (permalink) Old 11-08-2002, 04:17 PM
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Re: cj steering shaft replacement

You should go with a Flaming River or Borgeson shaft. They are stronger and have longer lives. They are also collapsible which could save your life in the event of a head on collision. The box is mounted to the frame and the column is pretty much solidly mounted to the box so if the box should move, like if hit head on, it will push the steering column up through the dash and into you. Over all they are just built better then the stock shafts. That is why they are so expensive. Your steering box can be rebuilt but it is not a job you should tackle yourself. If you want to stay with the manual steering I would go to a steering box shop and purchase a rebuilt unit. IMHO I would replace the manual box with a rebuilt power steering box, pump and bracket from a late 70’s CJ. You have to make sure that you have the mounting bosses on your motor for the pump bracket. I know I did not on my 73 258. The power steering box has a different input shaft and sector shaft. I believe the input shaft for the power steering is 13/16 with 36 splines and your manual box is 3/4 with 36 splines. Since you are already buying a new shaft you can ask Borgeson to add the correct size of u-joints, if you got o power steering. If I remember correctly you will need a 737 (3/4 x 36 splines) for the steering column and an 836 (13/16 x 36 splines) for the power steering box. You will also need to make sure that you get the pitman arm that comes with the power steering or buy a drop pitman arm for a power steering box, if you are already using a drop arm. When I converted my 73 to power steering I used a power steering box and pump form a 78 CJ-5. I had noticed that the power steering shaft was too short. I ended up pulling my old shaft and the power steering shaft apart and swapping the joint that connects to the box. I then used my shaft with the power steering joint and it fit great. I then drilled out the power steering arm to accept a ¾” bolt to make rod ends work. I had already fabed a custom drag link using rod ends threaded directly into cold rolled steel. It is a tad bit overkill but it will never break. I mounted the drag link on the top side of the steering arm and on the bottom side of the pitman arm which put the link almost parallel with the tie rod. This has worked pretty good for me so far.
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