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Coil sprung....

385 views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  GreenMachine 
#1 ·
Well i got a new cable modem so i am able to get back on line now. I figured I would post a couple of pics of the setup so far and see what everyone thought. Also I would appreciate any advice you want to give.



BTW the perches and buckets are just spotted on in the pics so i could cut them off easier if need be.

I am needed some kind of tube (TJ like) retainer for the upper part of the springs and I will probably go with a fixed mount on the bottom. The DOM for my links is hopefully on it's way (wish it was here so I could make them too). I am going to try to get the exhaust and the roll cage squared away this weekend.........
 
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#2 ·
My first comment would be that your springs are too far inboard putting too much strain on the axle tubes, but then you ain't carryin' any weight back there so maybe it'll be all right.

Your Jeep reminds me or an old '60s T bucket hot rod. You gonna use a beer keg for a gas tank? How about a pic of the front. I recognized that rear panel real easy, I just made one out of 'glass. Pretty cool idea to cut it off there, or was the rear just rusted out and you cut it off that way?
 
#5 ·
In reply to:

And yes if I can find a beer keg that's what I will use as a gas tank.
Find one? You purchase it full and consume the contents.

So what would happen if you cut the frame at the top of the rear arc above the axle and went straight back with rectangular tubing? Would look cleaner and give you more room to get the springs further out.
 
#6 ·
I thought about that but I really don't want to cut the frame at all if I can keep from it. The wheelbase as it sits is 118" (I should have painted it yellow and got a job hauling kids for the city) so I don't want the coils any further back. I might coil the front too and move it back about 4". The frame was stretched in the front when I got it so I left it that way. I would have prefered to have it stock in the front maybe a 1" or 2" longer instead of 10". I have 3" front coils for the rear too if I decide the stock TJ fronts are not enough (I also have 4" lift leaves for the front, they are stock YJ right now). My frame sits 24" off the ground and there is no air in any of the tires. Right now I don't have enough weigth to squat them. My goal was to increase the wheelbase to about 112" to 114" but I went over to avoid cutting out the middle crossmember. I might try it this way and then move it forward if it doesn't work well.... I might try the extra lift too, to get my belly a little higher. I don't want to run it too high because I have a good low center of gravity right now and can run large tires with little lift. I guess we will have to see how it works...... I am going to take it up slick rock on it's maiden voyage. If it scraps really bad right there then I might have to shorten it down to about 110". It looks really loooooong.....
 
#7 ·
I wouldn't lengthen it either. I thought maybe stubbing out from the top of the rear frame arc would let you get the coils in under the frame rather than between the rails. This would let you get out closer to the hubs and not have so much axle tube overhang past the springs. I can understand if you don't want to cut the frame, but it concerns me with that much axle tube hanging out past the spring perches plus those deep offset wheels. I guess the first time you come down hard you will find out if it's strong enough. What the heck, give it a shot, axle housings are cheap so you won't be out much even if it does turn out to be a problem.

Let's see though, if you were to cut the frame at the back, you could reinforce it with some 1/4" plate level with the top of the frame almost to the cab. Then about a 4' square flatbed on top of that with stake sides bolted to the rollbar. Three beer kegs in the bed (two on bottom and one between on top) for lotsa gas and big beer logos on the doors. That'll spoil that school bus image. Sorry, I'm getting goofy now and besides it only works with the halftop on and you'd have to have a full-floater in the rear to make it look right.
 
#8 ·
I could have put the springs under the frame just about anywhere I specifically chose to go to the inside to make it pivot more with less spring travel. The further out from the chunk you go the less travel I would get with the same springs. And the spring cups are sitting at 32" apart which is what alot of the full-size fronts sit at. I am not worried about stressing the tubes as they are meant to carry a full size truck and whatever is in the bed ( I am pretty light with my setup). It is a YJ frame so it is one piece mandrel bent tube instead of the welded seam that CJ's used, the frame should not need any reinforcing. The wheels are offset 4" which is fairly standard too they are just 10"x15" instead of 8"x15" and they are lighter by a bit than steel too. I have been told for years that a 12 bolt wouldn't hold up to 38's and for years mine has. Of course I just drive it around mall parking lots
If it is needed I have a full floater for the rear and I have been working on a trade for a front 60 too. I am still not puting in 1 tons still i start breaking what I have. I break stuff all the time besides axles, though I have always had good luck out of the 12 bolt (I have grenaded 2 welded dana 44 carriers).
 
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