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post #8 of (permalink) Old 09-29-1999, 09:33 AM
TEX
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Re: flat on a trailer

<font color=purple> Shain, if you figure out your overheating problem, let me know. I have a similar problem in my '90 Z71, although not as severe as yours. And yeah, I've done the radiator switch too. I'm thinking maybe I have some sort of cooling block in my heads as the original owner of this truck had the gunkiest coolent I'd ever seen. I had an injector going out & that was causing the motor to run a little lean. Fixed that & it helped. My tow vehicle is not a daily driver, so fuel mileage isn't a concern. So, I'm skipping the diesel route & retiring mine next year in favor of a 2001 Sierra - either with the Vortec 6000, or the 8100 (assuming they really put it in there).

As to the lightweight trailer idea that CJDave mentioned, I once towed a CJ7 on a 12-foot, single-axle trailer with a surge brake. I don't care for surge brakes since they don't work in reverse, but the Jeep DID fit on the trailer - barely. Loading was an adventure as it was a tilt-job with the entire floor over the wheels. You had to winch up the front of the floor, then drive all the way up to the front, then back off the winch. It worked, but I'd still prefer a twin-axle trailer (gives ya 4-wheel brakes if you opt for 'em, for one thing). I'd go 14-feet for a 7 or 12-feet for a 5 or flatfender. Then, only put boards under the tires if you want to save some weight. Also, you don't need to make it any wider than it has to be. This will keep the weight down & keep your friend's "bulldozers" off of it.

Personally, I prefer my wide, 16-footer as I have a lot of extra uses for it besides towing my Toy. And mine with a wrap-around tongue, 6-ply 235/75's, 4-wheel brakes, 6' 9" floor width, treated lumber, & heavy ramps, weighs 1,400 lbs. But, if you want a specific-duty trailer, you could certainly cut out a lot of extra weight.
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TEX

TEX

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