Ok... if you want to run 33's you need to get a little clearance. This can be done in a couple of ways. a 4" lift will accomplish this for mild wheeling with 8" wheels. 10's may get you in the fender and cut down your turning radius. The other way is to use a 2.5" lift and 2" body lift. Ive been running this way for several years and the ride is much better than a 4" lift, less stuff to have to work on afterwards,, ( vibration and steering geometry). another thing to consider is the 33's will take all the power from your stock set up. you will need to get at least 410 gearing to get back in the power band on the engine. All this can be done with the stock axles, (keep in mind my set up does not have the "c" clip axles) But this can be left alone till if and when it breaks. You can get a lot of wheeling done in the stock mode and with just a few mods. get a whole lot more wheeling in. All us guys on here do from extreme wheeling to mild wheeling and all types in between, mud and sand have a different way of attacking drive trains than rocks, so the build up is a little different from one to the other. One keeps the drive train turning at higher rpms than the other so things break more often (mud and sand) the other relies on torque and slow rpms, (rocks) but then you have to contend with the torque and weight ratio's cause things can break here as well. But you should be able to do a lot of wheeling while you make your mods and have fun doing it.
Jim's 4x4 and OffRoad page