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Thread: polaris clutch
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-13-2000, 06:54 AM
Matt M38A1
Posts: n/a
Re: polaris clutch

Probably didn't damage anything if you only went 38 miles. I assume you're going to take it off the machine to do a little maintenance, this is really the only way you can compress the spring to inspect the rollers, etc.. Be sure to inspect the sheaves for heat cracks. Burning the belt on a clutch that's not working does create alot of heat! (voice of experience) About the only other thing I can say is while it's out just put it on the garage floor compress it, and check that the rollers all move freely. They should have no slop in them, on the shaft or left to right. There are fiber bushings inside them, and fiber washers on each side of them. If sloppy replace them, because this could cause them to bind. Also, inspect their surfaces for flat spots, this will also cause binding. The weights also have fiber bushings on their pivots. They fit real tight on the pivot bolts, and should have almost zero slop. Basically the bolts moves until the bushing wears in a bit. The third component is the bronze bushings. There's one in the cover and one that is in the moveable sheave. Make sure they're clean and not worn. This too will cause binding! You can look at the cover bushing when you get the clutch off the machine, before disassembly, and can likely see if it is worn funny. Otherwise when you get the cover plate off clean the bushing area off, and you can compare the bushing to the cover hole to see if it is egged out. This will show you if the clutch is cocked to one side while working, again a clue to binding.

Don't oil any part of it, as this only attracts dirt and speeds wear. It's designed to run dry anyway.

While I may catch hell for this, I rebuilt three clutches this summer and used a 2x4 and the weight of my machine (and me) to compress the clutch (put one end under a trailing arm, and a large socket to fit over the shaft), just let up easy. The hardest part is getting the locknut and spider (rollers are attached to it) off, but you won't need to as long as you don't need to replace the sheave bushing. THE CLUTCH IS BALANCED, SO BE SURE TO REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY IT CAME APART. There are X's cast into the movable sheave webs, one arm of the spider, and on the face of the cover. Just be sure to pay attention to this, or mark all three before disassembly.

You'll need new "buttons" if you have to replace any rollers or fiber washers, because they have to be removed, and are a bitch if you don't have a tool that will remove them without destroying them.

When reinstalling tourque bolt to 55 ft-lbs, then loosen and re-tourque to 45 ft-lbs (per Comet assembly instuctions. If it works for them it's fine for me!)

Ultimately, you probably only have some minor corrosion binding it up, I can't imagine it would have major clutch issues with only 1800 miles!!!! Just get it off the machine, compress it with your knees to inspect everything, and wipe everything you can that moves with a CLEAN rag. Maybe it is only a little corrosion and you can clear it up by removing it? To this effect, check the shaft in between the sheaves for rust that could bind the moveable sheave.

As for the xlt, You did well to go that long without maintenance. I just rebuilt my dads XLT primary with 4200 miles, and one of the rollers didn't have any bushing left in it. I also had to replace my Ultra clutch do to flatting of two rollers, one was so bad the weight was starting to wear into the shaft inside the roller (previous owner issues here)!

Good luck, hope this helps

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