Re: What ever came of \"our\" axle wrap discussion?
I'll build my Ford 9" (it's sitting under the bench) with stiffeners on top and back. The top will get an additional 'strap' of steel pointing forward. It'll be about 5/8" to 3/4" thick and 1-1/2" wide. The forward end will be rotated 90 degrees. I will put one hole in this forward end; it will be tapered to match the tie rod end from a one ton something or other (Ford or Shevolay) and will be turned sideways to keep the nut away from the high pinion assembly. The other end of the tie rod end will be threaded into a heavy wall tube without a jam nut. This heavy wall tube will go forward to a pivot point on either a custom crossmember above the t-case or to a stand on the existing crossmember/skidplate. The whole assembly will roughly parallell the driveshaft.
The use of the tie rod end will allow a couple of things which have been discussed on this board. It will allow tuning the point of the pinion for purposes of CV joint compliance and since there is no jam nut (whatever do you need it for in this instance?) it will allow the whole assembly to rotate in the 'middle' and so give no resistance to the tilting of the frame relative to the axle. Hence no bind. And the use of the tie rod end will allow the rear axle to continue to make it's odd arc as commaned by the flat center section of the leaf springs. (Remember that the pumpkin - actually the whole axle unit - does NOT rotate as it goes thru it's arc; it stays 'flat' and tieing a forward (or rearward) pointing bar of anykind to a rigid pivot point with leaf springs has to have some place to give if the arc is much at all.
3/4 ton YJ's is a bombproof setup (everything he does appears to me to be bombproof and he does it for so little money)(I'm jealous) but as he said, his rig isn't a flexmonster so his arcs' differences are taken up by the compression of whatever his mounting points are made of. (Or something bends (flexes) which I doubt just looking at the meat the man puts in his stuff.) He's probably the only person on this board from back east that could go to the Hammer trails and hammer his Jeep and not break.
Jeff's (H8Monday) has a now-proven unique Fordamatic Traction Device which works because (and he HAS a flexmonster) he allows his acrs' differences to be taken up with compression of the coupling at both ends of his arm. What pains me is that he's a squid and he THOUGHT of it! Worse, I'm jealous of HIM, too!
Anyways, that's my contribution to the discussion. And some of my plans for my newly acquired heavy half-ton 9" (with big bearings, thank you).
As an additional item here: one for safety - protect your brake lines. I once was doing some high speed after dark runs on the South Canadian River bottom in a Corvair powered sand rail. Mostly you fly along at anywhere above the 80 mph mark and have fun. Something came up and I went for the brakes and there were NONE. After driving over and through some things I'd rather not recall, I geared to a stop and looked things over. Some time earlier I had driven over something that passed over the top of the A- frame and severed the steel brake line as cleanly as you please. I have since always tried to protect the brake lines. My two trusses will have a 'wing' on one side of each facing each other. In the gap or space between the two will be nestled an oversize(3/16" - not 1/8") brake line. Hydroboost and four wheel discs dictate that; look at what GM did to all vehicles with 4 wheel discs back in the 70's and 80's. Others may have done so also, I just don't know about it. Anyway, I will do my protection with a semi-open method so that there isn't a nook or cranny to catch debris, hold moisture and cause rust to get started.
What axle are you using?