Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups - View Single Post - Problems Finding Correct Tie Rod Ends...
View Single Post
post #4 of (permalink) Old 08-03-2009, 07:19 PM
bandhmo2
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Posts: 757
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
 
Late 70's and early 80's Chevy/GM 1/2 to 3/4 ton trucks used similar TRE's. They have a bigger tapered area then CJ's but use the same taper 1.5" per foot. The treads are 7/8"-18. 1 tons used the same taper but the threads where 1"-18. You can ream out the CJ knuckles and Pitman arm to the chevy taper but it is slow and the cheapest reamer I have seen lately was about $60. Taps are available to make your own links but they are not a common thread so you will need to order them (MSC has them) and the left hand tape is rather expensive. If you have a large enough lathe I suppose you could single point them but single pointing a long inside tread like that would be a pain. Some outfits do make weldable bungs that are prethreaded and can be welded to the ends of your tubes, but I hate the idea of welding something like that on a highway rig.

If you run relatively stock tires and have not had a problem with bending tierods I would just go with stock Jeep TRE's.

If you do want to go to Chevy TRE's the cheapest way is to just order a set of rodends and links from Partsmike. That is what I am going to do and a love to make stuff myself but the last time I looked it was like $250 for Partsmikes kit and when you add up the cost of TRE's and the tools needed to make the links you get way more then that.

Wilhelm

I will start using Metric only when the duodecimal system is adopted!!

Last edited by bandhmo2; 08-03-2009 at 07:21 PM.
bandhmo2 is offline  
 
 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome