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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: cordova, Md
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JeepWire.Com Presents: Do It Yourself Drive Shaft Basics

myscrambler1- the above has some pretty good info

I was able to grab the yolk with a larger puller, it resisted all the way off. I used an impact to install the XJ yolk (on the dana 300), it resisted all the way on. I'm sure I will regret this one day if/when I have to remove it, but for now, I'm up and running. I used the front shaft and yolk from an XJ, not sure of year. I believe it was about 34 inches before i cut it. I ground the weld from the slip side of the shaft (I wish I had spent a little more time here), cut the tube to length, and put it back together. I took about 1/2 hour eyeballing it every way possible before I tacked it. With the shaft in the jeep and the rear wheels blocked off of the ground, I could turn the shaft and used a dial indicator to check run out. Using a hammer, I corrected the run out to about 8 thou. I felt pretty good at this point, but when I finished welding, 8 thou warped to 40 or 50 thou. I do not know how to stop this. same thing happened on my homemade front shaft, although, I am not to worried about this one, as long as she holds up. I only drove it up to about 50 mph and somehow, noticed no vibration. I do have some concern about an undetectable vibe wearing internal part prematurely. In theory, simple project, as for welding, don't know how to combat deflection.

My buddy had a custom double carden and yolk delivered to his door for $230. Tatton's from Murray, Ut. 801 979 4908. No problems so far. At some point I may have to accept my homemade $50 shaft for a back-up and have one made.
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