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post #3 of (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 01:40 AM
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The PO overlaid the rusted out floor with flat metal in mine,
So the patch was Easy.

What I would do is two things,
I would simply take a flat piece of metal and form in the ribs to match the floor, then cut it to shape (round, square, triangle, trapezoid or whatever!)

I would pop rivet it into place.
Pop rivet heads are EASY to drill out... Remove/Replace if you ever need to get into the sending unit again,
And they hold VERY well, are cheap and easy to use.


Will that fuel door you have stand up to the beating and banging that happens in the back of a Jeep?
Looks kind of flimsy to me.

Anyway, to make that fuel door match the surrounding profile of the floor, you are going to have to take a die grinder/sander to the sides...

It's going to be time consuming and slow, and if you screw up, you are going to scar up the 'Pretty' fuel door!

Tape around the hole with masking tape so you can locate the door right where you want it,
Then trace around it so you can locate that door in the same spots over and over while you are cutting the mounting flange to fit the floor profile...

Tape over the mounting ring of the fuel door so you won't scratch things up so easily and you can mark stuff like 'Witness Marks' and were material needs to be removed...

'Witness Marks' on the fuel door mounting flange to the tape will speed the relocation to see where you need to take material off...
A 'Witness Mark' is nothing more than a mark from your fuel door frame to the tape around the hole so you can line up the marks when sizing things up.

Lay the fuel door on the floor, and mark where the mounting ring needs to be cut away to fit the profile of the floor,...
Then start grinding/sanding/filing away until it fits the profile of the floor.

Don't forget to full the mounting ring full of epoxy or something so it doesn't dent up when something gets thrown on it or someone stands on it...

As for the lock, you are going to have to remove the lock cylinder,
And remove the pins from the lock cylinder so you can open it with nothing more than a screwdriver...
It won't be a 'Lock' after that, it will be a 'Latch' with a slotted opening for 'Latching/Unlatching'...

With the pins removed from the lock cylinder, you don't have to worry about crud getting into the key hole...

So Many Cats, So Few Recipes...
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