Off Roading Forums banner

Jeep Rubicon - comments?

3K views 23 replies 8 participants last post by  rubiconvict 
#1 ·
I'm thinking about buying one - It wouldn't be for hard core wheeling, but fairly often. I'd still have my others for the really challenging stuff.

What have you heard about the Jeep Rubicon - good, bad - opinions.

It's $10,000 more but the D-44's with 4.11's, Air locker front, limited slip rear, 4:1 t-case, 16" tires are a good start. I'm considering it because I won't have to work on it all the time - leaves more time for other projects.

And -- sticker's about $30,000 - what's the best price you've heard of?

Anybody know dealer's cost?
 
#2 ·
I thought that they were electric lockers.

Anyway, I havent heard anything bad about them. the TJ is a great platform to work from to start with, add in everything that the Rubi has, and you have a very capable out of the box Jeep. I think I will wait to get a used one. I cant see dropping 30,000 bones on it though.

Phil
 
#3 ·
I'm pretty positive that they're electric lockers, not air. Also, the rear is a full locker when engaged, and limited slip when not. That price seems a little steep. I'd say somewhere around 26k or so would be a good deal. Also, I'd hope it comes with tires larger than 16"?
 
#4 ·
Ooops, rims are 16's. Tires are 245x16. Except maybe the low rider version.

The "salesman" said it was air lockers front, limit slip rear, and seems like I saw that on the sticker too - but not 100% sure. I was surprised too.

After thinking about it, there were a couple other things that didn't seem right either. I wonder if I was looking at a counterfeit Rubicon? Things I've heard about that dealer I wouldn't be surprised.
 
#6 ·
The rear axle acts as a limited slip in normal driving when needed press down on the locker toggle once to engage the rear "air actuated" locker press down the toggle a second time and the front "air actuated" locker will engage, now you can toggle the front locker on and off by pressing down on the toggle or to disengage completely front and rear, toggle the front locker off and then press the toggle up to disengage the rear. The system uses a low pressure air compressor which is mounted within the frame rails.
John
jduffey97tj@yahoo.com
 
G
#8 ·
30Gs, wow. Well, I'd ask yourself if the rubi-upgrade to the TJ is the way you'd want it if you built it yourself. In orher words, are those the lockers you'd put on it?

Around here you can get a used TJ for 15k or so, that leaves another 15k for mods, just the way you want em, and then your car note is only 15k, not 30.

Just a thought. I get that you want to save time to do other things (rather than working on the jeep) but there are a ton of decent rigs out there for sale, and 99% of them are less than a rubi.

Besides, you can always spring for the rubicon decals and drop em on your home-built.


Good luck, and have fun whatever you do!
 
#9 ·
So it is air, just not ARB.

Yup, 30K is alot of bread.

My reasoning:
I can sell my "built" '72 4x4 Chev PU for a bunch, it's great but takes time to keep it that way - frees up more time.
And sell my "built" M38A1 that I just bought, another chunk of time freed up.
And sell my Astro van while it's still in good shape - I'll cry when it goes, been good to me for 250,000 miles but soon another time grabber.

That liberates time, constant drain for parts and modifications, license and insurance costs.
That'll pay for way over half of it. Time for a new car anyway.

Then I can dedicate the newly liberated time, and money, to the crawler, the Jeepster, the 4x4 Tracker(s) and the motorhome!

Does anybody know the dealer's markup - need to know so I can cut the best deal with him. When/if I go for it, I'll make only one offer, no negotiation - it'll be a take it or leave it situation. They like to play games with the price, I won't. He needs to make something I understand, but not get rich on me. One lie, one trick and I go to another dealer.

 
G
#10 ·
I have had mine for about 3 months. I love it.



My thoughts:

1: Price. I paid $26.2 with a five speed and EVERY other option. Dual top, 7 speaker stereo with sub (which BTW it the most worthless stereo I have ever seen in a new vehicle. Save your money and buy an aftermarket stereo), temp gauge in the mirror, everything but the Smokers Group. 28 something out the door with tax title and licsence. Single top, stock stereo units went for 24ish around here. $500 over invoice is a good rule of thumb.

2: Diffs are low pressure air actuated. Rear is also limited slip when not locked. It is a very good limited slip, easily as good as the old PowerLocks. Lockers do not work in 4HI, only 4LO, but that isn't really an issue as the LSD is fine.

3: People tend to react strongly to Rubicons on the trail. Some assume that I am a newby (which I am not), or they assume I should be out running the truely crazy 4.5 level trails (which I am not gonna, still have 58 payments left), or that I am mecahanically inept ("dude, you could built one for less.") which I am not, or I get the "Jeeps aren't bought , they are built" thing. Anyone giving me the last two are invited to bring their tools over to my garage and help me finsh up my CJ while they explain their point.

4: The front "D44" isn't really. The center section is a D44, but the axles, tubes, knuckles, all that is D30. You WILL have the same strength issues with the front end as you do with D30s except the ring and pinion won't break. That works for me, I can trail fix all the other stuff, not so much R&P. Axle upgrades are just now coming out from Warn and Superior.

5: Four wheel disk brakes are officially a "good thing"!

6: Whoever the intern at DC is that designed the T/C skid pan needs to receive an atomic wedgie.

7: Value. Are they a good value? For me, Yes. This is a rig that I want to run AZ trails on the weekend and still be able to show up in a clients parking lot on Monday and not freak anyone out (I do customer support for corporate banking, suit and tie stuff). IMHO, if you are looking for a serious trail rig, or are going to run 35" tire or bigger (again just my opinion, lots of folks out here are running 35s on their Rubi's, I just don't think 4.10s and 35s are a good match), or do things that regularly break a TJ D30, then building your own with a real D44 and lower gears might be better. That said, I have about $31k into my Rubicon right now, including CB, GPS, front roll cage, RE 3.5" lift, 305R16s (33") MTRs, Tom Woods DS, 9k lb winch, CO2 OBA all on a rig that is locked front and back has a 64:1 crawl ratio, is warrantied (no the lift does not void the warranty, warranty just doesn't cover lift and D/S now) and has less than 5k miles.

8: Build vs. Buy. Lots of folks tell me that I could have built for less. That may be the case, but I already have a project Jeep, and I didn't want a second one. I am yet to have someone come up to me in a rig with comparable hardware and tell that they DID build it for less than I bought, and I have had a number of people who do have comparable hardware say that they should have just gotten the Rubicon, given the $$ and time they spent. Not saying it can't be done, I am just saying I haven't seen it yet.

The Jeep is set up about the way I like it right now and I am looking forward to enjoying it for many years. The only other mods that are planned are rock lights (going in today), storage racks and boxes for extended trail runs, and a tummy tuck T/C skid once Kilby, Nth Degree and other get their production units out (probably do that end of August, in time for MOAB BABY!), and axle upgrades later this fall.

Well, those are my thoughts, time to go install the rock lights, got a night run tomorrow.
 
G
#11 ·
I hear you, I hate dealing with car saleman.

What I did was go to Jeep.com, they have an invenotry tracker thing on there where I found the Jeeps with the options I wanted (sometimes you have to do the search twice, it doesn't alway bring up the Rubis the first time) at 3 different dealers. I called the dealer, gave them the stock number told them that I had already been quoted $500 over invoice on a comparable rig at another dealer. If they gave me the "what do you think invoice is" thing, I just let them know that I am comparing a number of Jeeps from a number of dealers, that I already have this price (without saying exactly what the price is), and that if they want to come back with a hard number they can call me back. If they want to come back with something more than that, don't waste either of our time and don't call back.

Worked well, the whole thing took about 3 hours and no one blew sunshine up my backside.

 
#12 ·
Dealer mark up on Wranglers in general is between 1500-2500 depending on model and options. Let me know the exact options you are looking at and I will try to find actual invoice for you. Warning many dealers at least in my are still are not dealing on the Rubis more the $500.
John
 
#13 ·
i sold jeep for a short stint, rubicon comes in at around 22000 they say invoice is 24,500 and they sell it for much much more, you see manufacturers pay dealerships to sell the cars so if you think by going to or under invoice you are getting a deal, you may be but your not ripping the dealership off. If i had money to play with i may consider it, but how much CJ (in my opinion the better jeep) can you get for 30,000. WOW!!

MC.......from bulltear.com
 
G
#14 ·
The Rubicon's are going for around $31,500 here in my area (New Mexico). Of course, that includes the typical dealer markups as well as their blatant "Market adjustment" for the limited production, as well as the infamous "southwest protection package." I am actually in the market for a Rubicon, but I am actually tempted to get one from AEV Conversions up in Montana because their price for the Rubicon is invoice + their modifications. Crunching the numbers between AEV and our local dealerships (not Jeep's MSRP), I can actually come away with an AEV converted Rubicon for around the same price as the one from our local dealership!!! The AEV Rubicon would come with a 2.5" OME lift, 32" tires, ARB Bullbar with Warn 9,000# winch, Rubicon Express rear tire carrier, IPF lights, etc. Of course this is a pretty mild conversion. They offer much more expensive conversions even without getting into the longer wheelbase Wranglers or the Brute. Does anyone know anything or have any experience with these conversions?
 
#15 ·
I bought mine in April, the sticker on it was $26,458 and after the rebates (2,000) plus vetrans discount ($500) and downpayment I ended up financing about 20 G's about a $400 a month payment. I pretty much got everything that I wanted but it was not loaded, Definetly dont waste your money on a factory stereo, they suck. Like it was said earlier get an aftermarket stereo, sound much better and a hell of a lot cheaper. I was suppose to have the factory CD player in it and the sub when I bought it but the dearlership kept screwing with me so I told them I wanted my money back and they wrote me out a check for $800 and I went and got an awsome stereo put in it. As far as the Rubicon goes, I love it and I was quite surprised how it handled in the mud and the rocks, it has an awsome low gear that crawls like no other stock vehicle out there. I too have my own project going 79 cj5 with 350/SM465/NP205, so I use my rubi as a daily driver and a weekend play toy, since my other jeep has been long under construction, the Rubicon satisfies my offroading needs. Since I have bought it I have installed a warn HS9500i Winch, K&N filter charger, and a Alpine stero, 8in sub, 100W amp, and new speakers all the way around, I can think the dealership for that one. Ive posted these on here before but I went to URE last month and here are some pictures from that trip Im hoping to go back on the 8th for Elusives last trip to URE/
Overall I really like the Rubicon and here where im at you can get a rubicon for at or less than a sahara. Which one would you choose?
 
#16 ·
This post has really helped me out regarding the Rubicon. I think it is a good deal for Jeep to sell a very capable off roader from the showroom floor. It sounds like if you are planning on upgrading in anyway, you are better off going from scratch or used at least; but if you already have a trail rig, the Rubi sounds like it fits the bill.
 
G
#17 ·
In reply to:

It sounds like if you are planning on upgrading in anyway, you are better off going from scratch or used at least;

[/ QUOTE ]

I would have to disagree. Some upgrades make a great deal of sense. A small (3"-4") lift with disconnects, and some larger tires (33"), cage, winch, things like that (all things that it just so happens are the things that I have done) make the Rubicon a remarkably capable vehicle. 35s (IMHO) or larger, gobbs of lift, superchargers, super exteme trails and the weaknesses start to show up fast.
 
#19 ·
I've had mine now for about 3 weeks - about 2000 miles so far, probably about 400 off road.
I was really upset at first (at 35 miles) - it would not climb a not too hard dirt hill. The front end starting hopping badly. That was locked, unlocked, Lo, Hi - tried all combinations. It actually made it better up the hill in 2 wheel drive!
Then I found just running down a sandy wash it would do the same thing. No, it's not the driver, it's the design of the front suspension. (The rear suspension is almost the same design as the front except backwards - backing up that end hops!)

Stragely enough most Wranglers don't experience the problem.
I've been told the springs are a bit longer, but still soft.
As the dealer says = most Rubi's will never get off road much, and then they'll just see the easy stuff. That's not why I bought it!!!

It's not unique to mine, I know several other Rubi owners with the same trouble.
I found the original shocks are trash. Shocks are supposed to control rebound. The ones on it feel like there's nothing inside when you activate them by hand.

Replacing them with Rancho 9000's and dialing them onto the stiffest setting takes out most of the hop. Not all of it, under certain circumstances it still hops - like when you are barely making a loose hill because of traction - nursing it a little at a time up while spinning the wheels. Once it starts to hop, you've lost the hill.

Hopefully the long arm suspension with 35's will stop the hop. Hopefully the long arm's can be made so a second set of shocks can be added. That's how we solved, but not cured, the early Bronco's hop problem.

Other than that, and the lack of power, I like it.

Mine, fully loaded with 2 tops, was $30,150 out the door, including tax, license, and all the political bribes (roughly 10%.)


 
#20 ·
I didn't mean it is a bad idea to add some aftermarket parts, far from it. I just meant it seemed like people who buy them already have a project and don't really want to start another. I encourage everyone to modify their vehicles to exactly what they want.
 
G
#21 ·
At the recent Big Bear Jeep Jeep jamboree, we had 3 stock rubicons fresh off the show room floor. All 3 did an excelent job of handled the trails...including Deep Creek.

Based on how they handled, and the input from the drivers...it appears to be a very good package. You would be hard pressed to take a new vehicle and put it in the same shape as the Rubicon for the same money...and that does not include your time.

Yes, you can build up a jeep for less money...but could you do it to a new TJ for the same price? I doubt it.

I see nothing wrong with buying the Rubicon with the expectation that your just getting a head start on your project jeep.
 
G
#22 ·
In reply to:

I just meant it seemed like people who buy them already have a project and don't really want to start another.

[/ QUOTE ]

That is exactly why I got one. Got a '74 spread all over the garage. Funny thing is all the money and wrenching is going into the Rubicon right now. Somehow the original plan didn't work......
 
#23 ·
I sure know what you mean - I bought it so I DIDN'T have to work on it - then I'd have time for all the other projects.
But then I find I'm spending time on the Rubi and not on the others - yet.

If you added the D-44's, the 4.11's, the rear discs, the on-demand lockers both ends - in combination with a limited slip, the crawler gears, the rear discs and all the other goodies you may be slightly less than the cost of the Rubi - if you did it all yourself - slightly less. If you paid someone to do it, I'm sure it would cost more. That was a major part of my decision.

It's not perfect, not the ultimate, but it is a great start.

START WITH THE SHOCKS it's the difference between night and day!

Now for a supercharger, long arms, 35's, skid plates, seats, --, --, --, --, and not to forget a --.

I guess I'll never get my garage back.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top