75 Yamaha DT 250/ the battery and beyond.

[goneteaching2]

Hey, my name is Ty and I have been slowly restoring a 75 yamaha DT 250. Maybe restoring is the wrong word but trying to fix it up so that it starts every time and runs strong through all the gears. This is my first motorcycle and it happens to be 5 years older than I am. I am a decent mechanic when it comes to turning bolts and fixing the things that are wrong with my truck and motorcycle, but a valve job on a 4 cylinder is one of the deeper jobs I have done so my knowledge is some what limited. I appreciate any time anyone can spend giving me a heads up on the basic or more complicated aspects of this machine I am dealing with.
I own the clymer guide or book to this bike.

I was having problems starting the bike, but when I would hook it up to a battery charger it would fire up first kick after charged.( there is no electric start) So I bought a new battery which caught the wires on fire. This may have been caused by the the connections being grounded out on the motorcycle. I am not sure but I would imagine that if the connections between the battery and the motorcycle made contact with the metal frame of the bike it could result in them heating up and smoking away the insulation? I don't know if this happened it is only my best guess. After buying the new battery (and re-wrapping the wires) I was still having trouble starting it. I disconnected the battery and it started starting up on much more of a regular basis. But then the head light and blinkers stopped working. (They were working after I disconnected the battery but only when it was running).

Does the battery have any influence on starting this motorcycle that only has a kick start?

Can I by-pass the battery and just connect the 2 wires that go into the battery together?

If the battery was bi-passed in some manner would the head light, blinkers and horn still work if the motorcycle was running?

Is there a way to by-pass the battery and would or could that be a smart decision?

Is the battery there for only the head light, blinkers and horn?

I am not the best with electrical stuff generally speaking but is there a cheap way for me to to start checking over the electrical system?

THAT IS IT FOR THE ELECTRICAL SIDE THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ANY FEED BACK. THERE IS MY CONTACT INFO AND A LIST OF EVERYTHING THAT I HAVE DONE TO THE BIKE AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS LETTER.

The other problem I am having is is in 4th & 5th gear the bike losses it's power. It seems to be once the bike is warmed up but not always the case. Sometimes it cruises along up a good incline, has lots of power, and other times it just starts dogging out and I have to down shift and so on. I noticed however in 5th and 4th when the engine starts dying off if I put the choke back on, it will help. It does not return to full power by any means but it is a noticible difference.

My only carb. experience comes from chainsaws, mainly Stihl but Husky also. On a Stihl there is full choke and half choke. Full choke allows little to no air in, half choke allows some air in and the gas is all the way on. I believe a husky has only full choke and run. There is only full choke and run on my motorcycle.

Does a choke on a motorcycle work the same way as a chainsaw?

Does the choke, when on, starve the bike of air in order for the gas to get built up and be easier to ignite and therefore start?

I am assuming there is a carb. adjustment needed to remedy this situation and I have not done all of my homework on it yet but any insight in to the situation would be greatly appreciated.

I have replaced both sprockets and chain, welded up the muffler, cleaned out the caurberator, replaced the clutch cable, head light, battery, adjusted the rear break, drained and replaced the gas and replaced the spark plug three or four times. (they are being fouled)

THANKS A MILLION
Sincerely, Ty
goneteaching2@gmail.com