i found some pics online of lifted tacos, and 3 inches does not look like very much, especially when you add 32" tires. that is what i was planning to put in my truck.
what if any are some additional mods that i would need to make to lift my truck over say 4 inches? from my research 3 inches seems to be the break point, after that you have to start gettting into some heavy mods. i have heard many horror stories about blown CV boots, ect.
IMO i would never go above 2.5 inchs if you have ADD. Because yes it starts to tear cv boots, and other problems you do not need. If you want over 3inchs you have two choices.. A diff drop kit that cost thousands for the kit and install... 4inch pro comp, 5inch tuff country, 6inch trailmaster and fabtech. Or you can do a coilover or coilspacer like you are planing and a body lift. I have a one inch custom made body lift by roger brown! Great product. RED
Automatic Disconnecting Differential (ADD): A 4WD system found on many Tacomas and 4Runners. Whereas traditional 4WD systems utilize manual locking hubs that must be locked by hand, the ADD system utilizes live hubs that are always locked. What this means is that even in 2WD, while moving, the driver-side and passenger-side axles and the differential are always spinning (the front drive shaft does not spin in 2WD). When in 2WD, although spinning, the driver-side axle is disconnected from the differential via a vacuum-actuated or electronically-actuated sleeve. When shifting the transfer case into 4WD, the front drive shaft is engaged, and the ADD actuator forces the sleeve toward the passenger side of the vehicle, effectively locking the splines of the driver-side axle with those of the differential.
thanks for the info, but i have manual locking hubs. my truck is a nintey five and a half, the first tacoma that toyota made. i don't know if that changes the lift equation, but i imagine that it would, since the axels are not always engaged and hence not always spinning.
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