Having used the factory torque specs...
I replaced my 3VZE head gaskets in 2001 and, not having any experience to cause me to question the factory torque specs, that's what I used on the caps and on the intake manifold. (I just checked my factory manual and the torque specs you quoted are the same and are what I used.)
I've put 63k miles on the motor since then, and for 6 years (I'm knocking on wood right now) the motor has been fine. I could see torquing the intake manifold bolts & nuts a little over factory spec, but I don't think you should go a lot over.
BY THE WAY! I wish oh boy do I wish I had replaced the knock sensor while I was in there - don't know what I was thinking: it was pinging occasionally before the gasket change and of course still does. Tweaking timing & octane has helped, but not eliminated the problem. Not sure if the knock sensor would have helped, but it may have. Likewise the various temperature senders are easy to access now, but won't be after the plenum goes back on. Just something for you to think about.
Another tip: For years I had a small oil leak from the back of the right valve cover. When installing after head gasket replacement I used Toyota's black sealant on both sides of the gasket, and above and below the rubber plug at the rear. It hasn't leaked a drop since. That sealant is real soft and will be easy to remove if I ever take that cover off again.
Finally, when all is together and you're ready to add coolant, attach the lower radiator hose, but only attach the upper hose to the motor. Then lift up the free end of the upper hose and pour in as much coolant as it will take. Then attach hose and fill radiator. I didn't do this at first and when I fired it up the water pump apparently didn't have a prime and so no coolant was going anywhere. (Oops!) You may already know this but just in case...
Good luck with your repair.
Last edited by sb5walker; 07-29-2007 at 11:36 PM.
Reason: to add something