3.0 Main Bearing Knock Repair Options

I'm pretty convinced that I have some excessive clearance in the front main bearing on my 3.0 4Runner.

What are my repair options? The knock isn't bad yet. Just a light thump when engine is warm on accleration. Then its gone.

That being said I want to do something to take care of it before it becomes a big problem.

Rebuilding it myself is not an option, I don't have the skills to say the least.

Does the motor have to be pulled in order to do a bearing job? Or can it be done from below?

It is like 18 hours labor by the book to R&I this motor and that is out of my ability to pay without even counting the price of bearings.

Any suggestions?

I've got $1200 MAX to throw at this thing. And that is on the high side. Is there anything I can do in the $800-$1200 price range????

HELP!

Thanks.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Edit: You can change the 3.0 rod bearings from below, but you can not change the 3.0 main bearings from below without pulling the tranny too. The main bearing cap(s) are really one piece, and the rear end is captured above part of the transsmission. I'd still rather pull the tranny and IFS stuff and do it from below than pull the engine. You can change the 22RE mains and rods from below, but have to pull the crank to change the upper side of the thrust washers. End edit.

It can be done from below (I did it on my 4Runner, but I have a 4 banger so things may be a little different). It's quite a job just getting the ifs stuff out fo the way to drop the pan, but it's not too complicated. I put in all new rod bearings and only spent about $70 on the whole job. It took me 2 days to do it, because I had to take all the IFS stuff off and drop the pan to see what size my bearings were, then put the pan back on (cause I had to keep driving the thing while I ordered the bearnings). Then drop the pan again and put the bearings in and put all the IFS back together.

If you feel like saving a lot of money, I'm willing to write up a step by step on how to do it for you.

Skills are something you learn, and this is a great oportunity to gain some and save a boatload of money while you're at it. Come on, you can do it! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Jerod,

Thank you for your reply. You say you put in new rod bearings. Can you get to the mains from below as well?

I"m not the most mechanically inclined guy, but I'm willing to try about anything to save the over $2000 mechanics are quoting me for pulling the motor.

thanks again.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Edit: No you can not change the 3.0 mains from below... see edit in 2nd post.

Yes, you can change the rods and mains from below. Just need a set of tools including 10mm-19mm wrenches and sockets (maybe a few deep sockets) and a torque wrench. Some help moving the frond diff around and a garage would be nice too... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

How many miles on your Runner? If it's getting up there I'd think about changing the rods as well as the mains. I wish I had done the mains while I was into mine, but was out of money. You should be able to do it for less than $200 as long as nothing along the way needs help too (IE CV axles...)

It was suggested to do the rods and mains while I was in there.

Getting the tools isn't an issue. I can do that.

I'm just worried about getting the front differential down and figuring out what I'm looking at once the pan is off.

Are you able to plastigage the clearances under there or do you just go with standard bearings and hope for the best?

I talked to a guy on another forum who says on the 3.0 you have to pull the motor to get to the mains.


http://toyota-4runner.org/showthread...4&postid=79564

That's the thread he had on replacing rod bearings. Some say you can do it, some say you can't.

I'm willing to try if it is indeed possible.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If you know what plastigauge is you're halfway there! Yes you can plastigauge them, I did and they were all good. It's suprising how well these cranks hold up, I just rebuilt my dad's 22R after 250+K miles on it, and the crank looked great.

The first step is getting the diff/drive shaft/axles out of the way. Do you have an auto or manual tranny? Manual or auto locking hubs?

I have an automatic transmission and I have the manual locking hubs.

I took a look at the haynes manual about getting all that stuff out out there and I have to admit it looked a litte daunting.

I have good friends that are pretty mechanically inclined so maybe I can give it a whirl.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Rule number one: Nothing's as hard as you think it is.

Rule number two: It's going to take longer than you think it will.

Some notes on safety: Before starting, put on your parking brake and block rear wheels. Use jack stands and so forth...

OK! Step one is shift it into 4 wheel drive (the auto transfer case may need the truck running, to engauge the front drive shaft), lock one hub and go to the other side.

Remove the end cover of the locking hub (make sure it's unlocked when you remove it, it makes things easier) then remove the bolt that's in the end of the axle, then replace the hub cover with 2 bolts, and lock it. Go to other side and repeat, only you don't have to put the hub cover back on.

Now if I recall correctly you have to take off the locking hub body and there is a c-clip around the axle that needs to be removed or it will not come out. Now take a tire off, Loosen the 6 nuts around the base of the hub.

Some people have had good luck with a punch or small screw driver, but I use a hammer and tap on the side of the hub body where the cone washers are and they seem to pop right off.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Now unbolt the front end of your drive shaft (mark the diff flange and the shaft so it goes back together the same way).

Drop the brush gaurd. And unbolt the 2 ends of the swaybar from the A-arms. Mine both just broke off... Remove the 6 nuts holding each CV axle to the diff. (the bolt is splined and pressed into the diff flange, so they will not turn) I used a wrench on the bolt and a socket on the nut side, and just let it turn till the wrench is against something.

Now comes the 2nd hardest part. Getting the diff and CV axles out (first hardest is getting them back in) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

The diff is held in with 3 bolts one into the front cross member, and 2 going up on either side behind the axle. All three have nuts on the other end and are easiest with some help. Leave the front one in it till the 2 rears are out.