Here's where help really comes in handy, also some bailing wire. You have to wiggle the diff around till you can get one of the CV axles anough room to get it above the diff flange then the diff will come down and out easily, but it's heavy, so keep fingers out of harms way.
Once the diff is out the axles can slide out, but you have to turn the wheels to the left to get the right axle out and to the right to get the left one out. This is so the axle will slide past the shock.
I had to unbolt the upper end of my steering stabilizer in order for the pan to come down. Which is the next step!
Remove pan bolts (drain oil first) the pan may be a little hard to get down once it's loose because the oil pickup tube is in there. I had to stick my head up and peek in to see what was going on.
My brain's a little tired now, so I'm going to take a break.
Take all the time you need. I probably won't be able to get to the this for at least a couple of weeks. That's at the earliest. Its possible I may have to put it off until the end of May. I teach therefore I have 3 monts off!!!!
That will definately give me some time.
Why won't any dealerships or mechanics replace the mains in this fashion? All of them that I called said, "Nope, have to pull the motor"
BTW, I appreciate it, and I'm mostly with you so far
It's not so bad, and frankly I'd rather drop all this stuff and work on the ground for a few days they pull a 3.0! Those guys don't know what they are missing [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] hehe There are so many little things that go into pulling an engine, any engine. Thinking about pulling an engine hurts my brain even more than remembering all this stuff [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
I had another guy send me a message on another site saying that changing out the main bearings with the engine in the truck is VERY difficult with the 3.0.
He dropped his pan on the 3.0 to replace the rod bearings and this is what he said about the mains:
"You could replace the main bearings (I think), but would have to pull the crank to do so. To pull crank, you'll have to drop the tranny and I believe take most of the front end of the engine apart."
Does the crank really have to be pulled? If I have to drop the tranny and all that other stuff I might as well just have the engine pulled.
I talked to a Toyota mechanic via email yesterday. He told me that this job is doable through the pan. However the transmission has to be unbolted and pulled back. This is because the bolts to the #5 bearing are obscured somehow by the transmission and without pulling the transmission you are unable to remove the main bearing girdle. On the 3.0 there are not seperate main bearing caps, there is just a one piece girdle holding all of the bearings.
I have a quote for $690 to replace all the bearings and the rear main seal. I think this is probably my best option as I don't know if I want to get into pulling the transmission back in addition to dropping all the front suspension stuff.
$690 is a pretty good price, however I still don't see why it isn't doable. First there's only 4 main bearings (#5? maybe the number just got confused), and unless the tranny comes in under the engine the girdle should come out with out any problems.
Think of it like this, the pan covers all the guts of the engine, if it comes down, how can the bearing retainer girdle not come out? As the pan is covering it...
As far as dropping the crank, all you need to do to get the upper bearings out is give them a push and they will spin out and down.
The picture in the link above you posted sure looks like it wouldn't be much of a problem.
I'd give more credit to what the Toyota tech says, but I think maybe they say it can't be done because it's never been done? Wouldn't it be cool to be the first one to do it? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
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