Saginaw Power Steering install

I have gathered the parts and kit to install Saginaw Power Steering. If you have done this conversion:
1. Any advice from your experience?
2. How did you remove the rivets to remove the old steering box mount?
3. My front bumper was welded on by former owner--do you think this conversion can be done without removing the bumper?

Thanks.

I've done the conversion on my Cruiser twice(swapped frame). I didn't use any kind of kit either time, just junk yard parts and stuff I fabbed, but maybe this will help a little.

1-The thing I would be most concerned about is the hole in the front cross member. If you can make it clean enough, try to cut the hole, then weld a peice of pipe(2 1/2", 3", whatever) in it to strengthen the frame. I would box both sides of both framerails(while your at it). For the steering box bolt holes in the framerail, weld pipe inside the frame for the bolts to go through so that you don't crush the framerail. NEVER EVEN DRIVE the vehicle without some kind of front bumper on it. After spending a day or two in Moab with no front bumper, my first frame got ripped to peices. I could turn the steering wheel while I was parked and watch the box and framerail twist about 90 degrees each direction before the tires even flinched. It's hard to over-strengthen the frame where it ties into the front crossmember, so I'd say weld away. It's a lot easier to work on if you pull off at least the grill, and the driver side fender if you get ambitious. Now that you've already got all the parts, it's nice to get a 4-bolt box(stonger) instead of the 3-bolt, but most of the people I have seen have the 3-bolt because they're a lot easier to find. I got my first 4-bolt box off of a '73 Nova, and the second one(first one got chucked accidently) off of a mid '70's Camaro. I don't know if your kit has the bushing that goes on the firewall, but if I did it again I'd make sure to get one. I made my own, but it's still loose and kind of noisy.

2-I cut the rivet heads off with a torch and got a REALLY BIG hammer. Gettin' that thing off definitely wasn't the easiest part, even with the rivets cut off.

3-Try it without removing the bumper until you get so pissed you can't stand it, then cut it off. It's nice to have it off so you can weld the boxing plates good(if you use them), also now that I think about it, putting the box on and taking it off might be a real pain with a bumper on, if possible at all. If you're like me, you can probably plan on mounting the box up and taking it off about 47 times before you're done.

Of course all this is assuming that you do yours somewhat like I've done mine. Hope it helps some.

Check out the following write up on Off-Road.Com. Then come back and ask 50 more questions. We'll be glad to answer them.

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/tech/saginaw/

--Eric

Eric: Thanks for the posting. I am using the TPI kit in the interest of time, but your information was helpful, particularly the part about using a hole saw to cut through the radiator support. All the other advice (magazine article in Four Wheeler, etc.) was to cut the holes with a torch. You used a 3" saw, but will a smaller hole (2 & 1/2")do the job? Did you weld a pipe through the holes as suggested by BUSTEDUP? Thanks, Don.

Another alternative is to use a bracket & a mini-truck steering box. JT Outfitters sells it for $175. This is by far the easiest & retains all the stock steering stuff except the manual box. Another alternative is the scout saganaw box that way you don't have to cut a hole in the frame. Info on this can be found on the off-road.com website.
Good luck

I don't have a torch so that was out of the question for me. Even if I had one, I would still use a hole saw again. You need to drill whatever size hole will allow you to stick the front of the Saginaw box inside the crossmember. I think 2.5" would be pushing it. You can drill a smaller hole in the back of the crossmember depending on what you use for steering shaft components. If you are using a spud shaft, you can drill a smaller hole. I just used a 3" hole like the front since I already had that size hole saw.

What holes are you talking about? The holes for mounting the steering box? I really find it hard to believe that you can cursh you frame by tightening those mounting bolts down. I think the coarse threaded cast threads will strip before you crush the frame. BUT, I did weld in little pieces of 1/2" black gas pipe inside the frame just in case.

As for using the stock mini truck PS conversion, I really can't suggest this if you are going to run bigger tires. With my manual steering and 33s, the lugs would hit the drag link (parallel link outside frame rai,l inside the left fender) when at full steering lock to the left and under compression. It is another alternative and so is the Scout Saginaw conversion. Each one has their advantages and disadvantages as well as the standard GM Saginaw conversion.

--Eric

Eric, like you, I'm not sure wether or not you would really NEED to put the 1/2" pipe in the framerail, but I did anyways also. Better(and easier) to do it before you find out wether or not you really have to.

That's exactly what I thought. It only took me an extra hour to do it compared to the 3 weeks that it took me to do the whole project.

Do your self a favor and remove the front bumper and the left fender. It will make access so much better and easier. Plus the tire is a great place to sit or place you tools on. My bumper was also welded on. I had to cut the welds. No biggie.

--Eric

Eric & Bustedup--thanks for the advice. I am about 1/2 way through the install. Drilled a 3" hole in the front and a 2.5" hole in the back using a 90 degree angle drill. Did remove the left fender, grill and radiator mount (needed to repair radiator core anyway)but did not remove the bumper yet. So far I am able to get the box and plate into position and should be able to weld the plate in position without removing bumper. I fabricated a pump mount to fit the old smog pump mount, but this puts the p.s. pump about 1.5" from the #1 downpipe on the headers. I am told by a guy who owns a muffler/header shop that this clearance should be ok. By the way, I am leaving the old steering box mount on the frame and plan to use it as a base to mount an onboard welder since the mount does not seem to interfere with anything. Don.