Hey blue, I haven't recieved your email (which is unusual) but I have read your posts. Here are Jason's emails, there's some really good data in here:
I haven't looked at the carb'd 2.8 but my motor swaps in the past have been from non sami / sidekick donors. So don't ask which wire to which wire but here are some suggestions for you!
First things first what year is your zuk and is it california emissions or not?
I wouldn't be too worried about the computer. Essentially what you are going to need to do it run your chev and zuk harnesses independantly of each other. If its a carb'd six the computer is for emmisions purposes. You will need to supply the computer with power, a ground and all the sensor inputs. Likely all of the inputs will be from the engine and its components (ie oxygen sensors, coil, distributor etc). The only outputs the computer has will be either to the engine electircal components (which is the chev factory harness) or to the gauges on your dash. What you need to do is get service manuals (or atleast electrical schematics) for both the motor and the sami (haynes, chilton etc.) then cross reference things like oil pressure, coolant temp, ignition, tach, check engine, fuel pump (if its electric!) etc. The other thing is tying the charging systems on each harness together, which could be a little more tricky. Basically do a whole bunch of leg work on those diagrams and make a list or diagram of the connections you need to make.
I hope this helps a little. If you need more e-mail me or post here.
The computer doesn't require that much to run.
If you have the motor and tranny in the donor vehicle then just swap things
like they are. I mounted the coumpter under the dash on the passenger's
side. You have to use and electric fuel pump. At Auto Zone they have one for
a Ford application that is an external mount (meaning not in the tank) and
it works very well. It is an E2000 and has a life time warranty. It is about
$100. You just put it in line in the larger line coming out of the stock
tank and continue on to the motor. The return line must also be hooked up as
the electric pump just keeps pumping. The motor only takes what it needs to
run and the rest is sent back to the tank. The harness and computer is best
kept plugged to the motor and just swapped over. Here is my website
it kinda sucks since it hasn't had any
changes made to it in the past year or more. The pics of the sammy are
without the motor swap. It still has the stock 1.3 but it does have the
axles under it. Feel free to ask me anything I can help you with. The secret
to the whole thing is label EVERYTHING and things should go smoothly.
Are you on the Topica Suzuki list? if not you can check out the discussions
sometimes there is helpful
info here bust alot of times it is just jibberish. They are talking of
another GOTZUK run in Disney Oklahoma in October. That might not be too bad
of a haul for you. Probably 5-6 hours. The one last February was great. A
lot of Suzukis with a lot of mods. Everything from stock to turbo diesels on
> Hey, the swap is not too hard. The 2.8 fits alot easier than a 4.3. Set
> motor as far back as possible to create more radiator room and room for
> power steering if you ever want it. The engine tranny combo with the Dana
> 300 transfer came up to several inches shorter than the stock combo. So
> rear driveshaft is actuall longer than it was stock. The computer is
> simple. Just mark all of your wires as you disconnect them. The only
> on the 2.8 that aren't in the block or the engine somewhere is the O2
> you have to put in the exhaust. Put that sensor somewhere approx under
> drivers seat. Don't put it too close to the manifold because it won't
> the heat. The only problem I had with mine after I got it running was a
> problem with it not wanting to start when it was cold out. Like first
> in the morning. The TPS(throttle position sensor) was finaly found the be
> the cause. I put the diagnostic port under the dash that the Camaro donor
> car had so I can run codes. The 700R4 will bolt to a number of different
> transfers with differnet adaptors, you have to reemove the tailshaft and
> have the main shaft shortened and re-splinned. The Nissan power steering
> works great. I just adapted the Standard fittings on the ends of the 2.8
> pump to metric fittings to fit the box and things work great. One finger
> steering and no squeel or whine. Right now I am using a radiator from an
> RX7. It keeps the motor cool in all but hard driving. Offroad things seem
> be fine but if I take it out on the roads the motor wants to turn too
> RPM's with the 5.89 gears, even with the overdrive. I used motor mounts
> of the Camaro welded to 1/4" wall angle iron wlded to the frame to make
> angled mount. The tranny/transfer mount is made from a 1" x 3" piece of
> channel iron. I had to cut the stock crossmember out and made the new one
> bolt in piece so service would be easier. My brother has a carborated 2.8
> and 5 spd from an S-10 in his with the stock transfer case and Dana
> That combo works pretty well too. In order to run a divorced style
> like that the motor has to be set farther forward though, to make room
> rear driveshaft.
> The power of the 2.8 is not earth-shattering. I mean it still won't be a
> you wan't to take to the drag strip but it is a HUGE improvement over
> It is more than 2.5 times the power that they came with.
> Sorry this is so spastic. I was just rattling off anything that came to
> I hope some of this helps. If you have any questions I might be able to
> help. No guarantees but I'll try.
There, hope that helps you out! Lemme know if you get yours done before me! I'm scheduled to start my swap at the end of next month.