header installation - how much torque?

[TexasA&MOffRoad]

FSM says 20lbs max, thorley instructions say 35lbs... how much do ya'll use when installing a header?

thorley says they need that much torque for the gaskets to seal properly, but i'd really rather not crack the head from tightening these bolts too tight...

also, they say to use some sort of high temp silicone gasket sealer between the header and the gasket... why? and can you get this stuff at any auto parts store (i've never seen it, but i've never really looked)?

thanks

Steve [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
'88 Suzuki Samurai
'99 Toyota Tacoma (Tow Vehicle)
bassmstr99@aol.com
Texas A&M Off-Road
FTAC of 2003

[Farther]

Since I am not a real mechanic I don't have a torque wrench. I usually twist until something breaks. If you have a torque wrench, I would follow the instructions.

When I installed headers on my two Samurais (one CalMini & one Thorley) I used the Permatexs (sp?) copper colored high temp RTV with the header gasket and tightened down the bolts. I have seen the Permatexs at several autoparts stores. I probably have exceeded the torque way too much. Just make sure that after a few warm-up/cool-down cycles, you retorque the bolts.

-Farther

WHOA WHOA there, stop the bus....
head bolts torque at 49 lb
flywheel/driveplate bolts 58 lb

pretty tight, but these aren't aluminum, here are some torque specs from the head:

main bearing bolts are 36-41 lb
intake/exhaust manifold bolts 14-20

Don't over torque anything on that head bro! Get a Hanes before you do anything. With all the aluminum bolts and screws, not to mention the aluminum engine [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] it is well worth the invcestment to know your torque specs.

I hate form-a-gasket type stuff, and use it grudgingly only when absolutely necessary. I always used a regular exhaust manifold gasket with my header.


Neal the Zukiguy

[ackerdackerly]

I agree with Zukiguy on this one -- except for the Haynes part...

The '88 FSM states that the torque applied to the exhaust manifold should be 13.5 to 20 foot-pounds. If you apply more, you do risk popping the stud out of the aluminum head -- something someone did on the used head I bought! The stud hole was rethreaded to accept an SAE (English) thread, so I have two kinds of nuts/bolts on my manifold.

I used Permatex Form-A-Gasket with success on my Thorley but a stock gasket also works and does not require careful application to make sure there are no gaps in the seal.

Good luck!

Ack

[TexasA&MOffRoad]

the header came with a nice big thick thorley gasget... the instructions say to use a silicone sealant along with the gasget though, so i was just wondering what the point was...

ive got a haynes and a factory manual.... i always check torque specs in these before tightening anything.... just had conflicting numbers this time, so i thought i would check with yall...

thanks

Steve [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
'88 Suzuki Samurai
'99 Toyota Tacoma (Tow Vehicle)
bassmstr99@aol.com
Texas A&M Off-Road
FTAC of 2003

[dparker]

on just the header i would get it as tight as i could and not worry about it! ive never torqued a head gasket but 1 time and the darn bolts backed out but that was on a chevy 350 , tighten it down tell it streps out and then back it off half around LOL

and yes if you dont no it buy now i cant spell LOL!

I agree that the Haynes is the cheapest of the manuals, but it's torque specs are all good, and it's readily available. I use the Haynes, Chilton, FSM, and the factory parts catalog. The parts catalog has blow-ups of EVERYTHING, far superior for diagrams to any manual I have encountered. Cost at Suzuki dealer: $29 and comes in individual make/model/year, so you can get specific for your 88.5 JX or your 86 SJ. [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img] No more guessing if the parts will match your diagram.

Neal the Zukiguy

I set mine at 20 MAX. The last gasket I received from Hawk Suzuki for my Calmini I got a really good tip from them on setting the torque on the header. He stated to get a good long lasting seal on the header you need to torque it cold then warm the motor to operating temps and then re-torque to specs. I did this and have not had any issues since.

LOCO

I was always taught to torque it down till your socket slips off then back it off a 1/4 turn.

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