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  #1  
Old 11-28-2000, 10:52 PM
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Default Yamaha Phazer

Hello,
I've got a 1993 Yamaha Phazer and I just wanted to know how I can raise my engagement speed for more power off the line. Also there seems to be a noise coming from my primary clutch, when I whack the throttle (from idle to wide open), it will do a wierd "clunk" sound. Especialy if the engine is hot, like in deep powder or a very tight trail. If I roll the power on smooth, it won't do it...I've nerver cleaned my clutch or had it apart yet. Would that help, what do i clean it with?? I've took the windage shields off my secondary to expose the cooling ribs to the air, this helped a bit, but not too much. I will also try the AAEN hot air outlet duct. It's supposed to lower the under hood temps. Anyone else have ideas out there??
Please let me know,
Later, Mars

1993 Yamaha Phazer
1990 Suzuki DR 350 S
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2000, 03:40 AM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

the clutch should be rebuilt,it could be binding then engauging causing the noise,or it could be play in the brake rotor,or the tension on the chain in the chain case could be sloppy. bu the primary clutch should be rebuilt seeing the sled is a 93.install a slightly heavyer spring or use shims to increase the engaugement(replacing the spring is a better choice).

motor head
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2000, 06:46 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

Hello again,

I don't think it has to be rebuilt, it only has about 4000 miles on it. What do you think?? Where can I get those shims?? I suppose from Bender or O.E.M Yamaha???
Please let me know,
Thanks, Marcel


1993 Yamaha Phazer
1990 Suzuki DR 350 S
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2000, 01:19 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

the clutch should be rebuilt definately,put in a new primary spring even if you use the stoch one ,they are only around $10.the shimms you should be able to get from the places you mentioned and maxximum performance. you shouldn't use anymore than two because you could cause coil bind,using shimms will fatigue the sping sooner but its a cheap way to raise engaugment.if you don't put in a new spring you may not realize the full potential of the shimms because the old spring has lost alot of its tension by now.what type of clutch does it have?some yamahas had comet clutches on them,mine came through with one.

motor head
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2000, 02:31 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

You can get shims from the dealer as well. Part no. 90201-483P9-00 but don't use more than 2. This clunk you are talking about could it be from your chaincase? If you grab the secondary pulley and rotate it one direction then the other how much total movement do you get on a given point on the outside of the clutch without the track moving? It should be no more than about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch and if it is you should adjust the chain tension. By the way you have a YXR clutch in there and my 93 Phazer S/T engaged low as well but it was great in deep snow because it didn't bury itself before it got moving. I had about 10000Km on it when I sold it and just kept the clutches clean. I used to take the clutches off and clean everything really well with brake clean spray. In the primary remove the weights and clean the pins they swivel on and also make sure the rollers spin easily too. On the secondary clean it thoroughly then put a little grease on the big fiber bushing that the helix sits in. There was a supplement from Yamaha that indicated this should be greased lightly. I never did rebuild the primary clutch on mine. I replaced the spring once. Must be because of the lower horsepower of these motors although I did have an Aaen pipe on it. The YXR clutches that they used from 93 up were much superior to the YPZ clutches they used previously.

"Sled till you're dead"
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Old 11-30-2000, 03:19 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

You're right it has the YXRC clutch. My stock primary spring is a Pink-Blue-Pink with a preload of 20 KG and a rate of 3.00. I think I will get a Pink-Yellow-Pink, it has the same rate but a preload of 25 KG. How much more RPM's will my clutch engage at??

I am also planning on getting some studs, I'm stuck between 72 or 96 carbide tipped studs. Which is better?? Will I need tunnel protectors, it's fan cooled so I don't need heat exchanger protectors.

Thanks a lot for all the info guys, VERY helpful
Later, Marcel

1993 Yamaha Phazer
1990 Suzuki DR 350 S
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Old 11-30-2000, 03:49 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

Retiredpop : My secondary clutch has about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch or play, how do I adjust the chain??

Which pipe did you have from AAEN, was it the can pipe or the trail torquer?? How did you like it? Did it reduce the Phazer's reliability?? I wanted to get one but I 'm afraid of burnt pistons and stuff like that….

Also, you mentioned that the old YPZ clutches weren't all that good, what's the difference?? My father has a 1990 Phazer and it has the YPZ, I've never raced him but I tried his sled and it seems to run the same….Although I tried it quite a while back and I don't remember it that well.

Thanks for all the good info, Sorry about all the questions, but I'm learning a lot.
Later, Marcel



1993 Yamaha Phazer
1990 Suzuki DR 350 S
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2000, 09:06 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

To adjust the chain tension look for a bolt on the front side of the chaincase about halfway down. It should have a locking nut on it which you loosen and then turn the bolt clockwise to take slack out of the chain. Tighten the locking nut and you're done.

I had the quiet can pipe Aaen part no. Y-11055 as per the instruction sheet that came with the pipe( my bill shows part no 16106 but that could have been just the local dealer number). The thing is if you buy a pipe for your Phazer make sure you do the primary nozzle mod in addition to increasing main jet size or you'll burn down due to lean mid range operation. The primary nozzle is the short one you see when you look into the carb ahead of the butterfly. The special nozzle has a bleed hole drilled all the way through. The stock nozzle only has a hole in it on the backside (engine side of carb) which you will see if you look from that side of carb when you have it off the machine. The part number for the special nozzle is 80L 14489-00-00 from Yamaha and it cost $17 Canadian four years ago. You need one for each carb. If you are daring enough you could drill the existing nozzle all the way through in which case you can not go back to stock exhaust. In any case to remove the nozzle you take off the main jet holder and remove the main nozzle as well which screws out. Set the carb body upright on a flat surface and reach in with a flat steel bar or aluminum bar and lay it on top of the primary nozzle. Hold the bar and hit it so you force the nozzle out of it's bore. It is just a friction fit. When installing the new nozzle or modified nozzle make sure the bleed hole which now goes all the way through is in line with the center of the carburetor so you can look through it front to rear. Depending where you ride for altitude there is an additional mod to do also to provide even more fuel in the midrange. I took this out as it made mine too rich for high altitude but what it did was to replace the main nozzle which is the long one with holes in it's sides with nozzle part no. 8Y2 14941-2A-00. If you run low altitude at low temps with a pipe you may want to add this as well. But in any case definitely do the primary nozzle mod. I didn't know about this mod and ended up burning down.

The reason I said the old clutches weren't as good was that they got a lot dirtier faster due to a more closed design. They also seemed to run a bit hotter too. My wife had a 91 Phazer and the clutch didn't backshift as well as my 93 did. I had high altitude setup in both. Overall they seemed to be a lighter duty type of clutch but not really anything wrong with them.

"Sled till you're dead"
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2005, 11:18 PM
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Default Re: Yamaha Phazer

Are you still online? I'd like to ask some questions and it seems like your knowledgable in relation to the phazer. phazerowner
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