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Dauntless V6

6K views 12 replies 2 participants last post by  Jim_Lou 
#1 ·
Hello, i have been rewiring my 68 CJ5 has a 225 Buick V6. My 2 questions, 1 is i have a fitting directly behind the carb. All the fitting had attached to it was a small rubber line. What is it? 2 is that from my ignition switch a wire goes to a ballast resistor and then to coil. Can i do without the resistor and how, Pros and Cons Thank you
 
#2 ·
If your ignition came with a ballast resistor it will work without it, but not for very long. The ignition system is designed to run on about 11 volts. The resistor cuts down the running voltage from 14.5 to the designed-for voltage. There's a terminal on the starter solenoid that supplies direct battery voltage to the ignition system, bypassing the resistor, when the engine is cranking and the battery voltage is pulled down by the load. If you bypass the resistor and feed running voltage to the ignition system the balance between the coil and the condenser is changed, and the points burn out quickly.

As for what you might have on the back of the carb, if it's down near the bottom of the carb it's probably for the vacuum advance. I can't think of anything else that a '68 would have such a fitting for. Some carbs had a large fitting for a 3/8" or 1/2" hose to feed the brake booster, but more commonly in that era they plumbed a fitting directly into the intake manifold.

Where abouts in Illinois are you?
 
#6 ·
Do you mean a single reservoir brake master cylinder? One reservoir of brake fluid and one tube coming off that gets split up and goes to all the wheel cylinders?

The fitting on the carb is probably for the vacuum advance. From the time vacuum advance was invented they used a metal tube to carry the vacuum signal to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. My '57 Chevy had a metal tube, and I think my '64 Jeep had a metal tube. My '78 Jeep had rubber hose. I can't recall when the manufacturers started using a rubber hose, but either will work.

The vacuum advance is strictly a fuel economy device. The engine will run fine without it, but use more gas under light load conditions. Just don't leave that fitting on the carb open - it will suck dust into the engine, and make the mixture leaner than it should be.
 
#7 ·
Yes it is like you explained, so it must be a single reservoir brake master cylinder. with drums brakes all around that i think need some work cause it dont stop very quick.


Also that fitting, could i just put a plug in it or what would be the best option. Its got a plug on the back of the carb if that is where it use to go to.

Again thanks a bunch for your help.:D
 
#9 ·
Does the distributor have a vacuum advance diaphragm? If so you might as well connect it up. Otherwise, yeah, plug the port.

I know where Mattoon is - I've gone through it many times on the way to Champaign. And for the last bunch of years, gone by on the way to the Bash in Indiana.
 
#12 ·
I been looking in my Haynes manual. It looks like it could be I line that went to a vacuum diverter I think it's called. When it had a stock air cleaner. But that's all been took off so? Also there a hole in valve cover for a Pcv valve I'm guessing. I wonder if I could just plug both holes.

On the good news side of things I got the ignition harness built and it started and ran last night. Thanks again for helping.
 
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