Damn Narrow framerails

[Tim]

Originally Posted by oldjeepguy

I was thinking about doing the same thing. What would happen if you used a 2 piece drive shaft like the original three speeds had or is the transfercase yoke still to close to the transmission?

We tried to do a multi-piece front driveline in hopes to stay away from the pan. Actually bought the parts and mocked-up for a three-piece driveline, but still the issue that is the main problem is that the first set of yokes at the output is still too close. Here's some pics of our attempt:



















So the answer to the fix for the Novak 4L60E to D-300 adapter was to space it back another 2" and clock it down a bit. This also required that a 2" longer input shaft be made and swapped in, all to remedy the Novak adapter that was designed too short to work effectively for its' designed purpose. Both the spacers and the new D-300 input shaft was at our additional expense.

[GMH]

I have three options I am looking at.

1) TH-350/D-300. I already have the adapter and t/c, but may still have clearance issues.

2) SM465/D300. I have the trans and t/c but need the adapter,bellhousing and all clutch linkage.

3) Hi pinion D-30 narrowed to use narrow track axles. I picked up 2 bent d-30 diffs for cheap to experiment with (1-XJ and 1-CJ). Then move everything over to the right and use an NP231 or NP241, 231 should definitly clock up. This also makes room for a steering shaft and brake booster.

[GMH]

I believe I will give option #3 a whirl, since I have most of the parts, and it just has so many pluses.

How to: Tj/Xj 30 with 44 knuckles - Great Lakes 4x4

I want to do a shackle reversal also and maybe switch to wide track width. This build makes incorporating all these mods easy.

[wiretwister0]

Would the ajustable motor mounts from Novac (1.5in left or right) be much help with this?

[Tim]

Originally Posted by wiretwister0

Would the ajustable motor mounts from Novac (1.5in left or right) be much help with this?

If you are referring to the front driveline issues associated with a 700R4/4L60/4L60E transmission with right-hand drop front output, then no it would not. The adjustability of the motor mounts might help with any frame clearance issues, (although I believe mounting the drivetrain dead center is best), but the major issue of concern is getting the front yoke and driveline away from the pan and all that stuff is still connected to each other the same regardless of where it sits on the frame.

[GMH]

Here is a mockup of a Stak mini 3spd box. Drivetrain is offset 1.75" to the right.

[wiretwister0]

Did you get the r/h drop with 4l60 to work. I still have time to change if I need to.

[GMH]

No. I am building a hi pinion D30, LH drop axle as per the previous link. I now have 3 options: Flip a dana 300 like this:
$20 Dana 300 flip kit - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
or this
Down East Offroad: Transfer Cases
I can also use an np231 or a Stak mini monster box.
STaK
The Stak case is pricey, but by the time you do all the upgrades to the 300 or 231 plus adapters you're spending close to the same amount.
The budget option is the home-brewed flip kit with no upgrades.

[GMH]

Stak also makes an aluminum replacement d/s drop dana 300 case that you can put your parts into, and also complete dana 300's in d/s or p/s drop.

[Randyzzz]

You can also use a 231C case from a S-10 Blazer- just make sure to get the adapter with it- it'a a 5 bolt mount. JB Conversions makes a SYE for it, and it's a straight bolt on with your 700R4. That was going to be my case of choice in my Scrambler build, but then I picked up a 241OR Rubicon case, and created a whole other host of problems. The 231C cases shift like a dream, the Blazer shifter works really well, and they are light, compact, and strong with the SYE kit installed. I've still got the 231c case and adapter I'd sell cheap, but I think shipping would be a killer.

If money isn't an object, go STAK all the way.