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07-05-2008, 08:50 AM
| | | Dana 27 Disc Conversion Problem
I am stuck on doing a front disc conversion to my 1968 Jeepster with the stock Dana 27 front axle. I was grinding the "half-moon" shape into the steering knuckles and test fitting the calipers and hoses, I noticed an interference issue. I can't find this problem posted anywhere else, so excuse me if this has been talked about before.
My passenger side caliper will hit this axle bracket and snubber on a right turn. Anyone else come across this? I mounted the caliper at the 9 o'clock position on the pass. side like the instructions say. Should I rotate 1 bolt clockwise? I am stuck!
Also, if anyone knows where I can get some front hubs for this thing. Mine are shot!
Thanks!
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07-05-2008, 05:06 PM
|  | Veteran | | Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Redlands, California
Posts: 1,220
| |
Yes, you will need to cut the bracket and snubber off. If you don't, you will have no brakes the first try after you make a hard right turn. I believe that bracket was to prevent axle wrap in 4wd when backing up, but I never had any issues related to removing the bracket.
__________________
David Goodrich
'67, 225, TH350, D300, D44 w/Detroit, D30 w/Lockrite, 4" SUA, 35x12.5
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07-06-2008, 06:44 AM
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Thanks Dave. I thought I had better double check before I started hacking my frame and axle.
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07-07-2008, 04:38 PM
|  | Novice | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Fresno CA
Posts: 40
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I was told not to do the disk upgrade but to get a new axel first as the original axel is not strong enough for th disk break torqe.
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07-07-2008, 08:03 PM
| | Addict | | Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: California
Posts: 537
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A Dana 27 is the weakest of the lot. A D30 is better and a 44 even better.
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07-08-2008, 01:43 AM
|  | Veteran | | Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Redlands, California
Posts: 1,220
| | Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckzilla A Dana 27 is the weakest of the lot. A D30 is better and a 44 even better. | Of course, this is techically true, but the 27 can put up with moderate wheeling, and there is definately no strength issue with converting to disc brakes. I ran mine with a Lock-rite and 33's for years. Went over the Rubicon several times, several trips to Moab, Dusy, etc. Never broke anything but a tie rod end. The disc conversion discussed here has been done for years, and works great.
I would suggest (strongly) that the spindle bolts be replaced with knuckle studs. The stock setup uses bolts threaded into the cast knuckle to hold the spindle on. These threads are known to rip out when running larger tires and power steering. To prevent this, you can drill the holes out to 3/8" and install Dana 30 studs (Mopar #J8124847) from the inside of the knuckle.
__________________
David Goodrich
'67, 225, TH350, D300, D44 w/Detroit, D30 w/Lockrite, 4" SUA, 35x12.5
Last edited by DaveGoodrich; 07-08-2008 at 12:44 PM.
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07-09-2008, 09:47 AM
| | | Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveGoodrich I would suggest (strongly) that the spindle bolts be replaced with knuckle studs. The stock setup uses bolts threaded into the cast knuckle to hold the spindle on. These threads are known to rip out when running larger tires and power steering. To prevent this, you can drill the holes out to 3/8" and install Dana 30 studs (Mopar #J8124847) from the inside of the knuckle. | I read the same thing on one of the many articles showing the disc brake conversion. I don't intend on off-roading too extreme (yet?). I have manual steering with 31" tires. So I haven't swapped the spindle bolts for studs, but I know it will always be bugging me that something I should have done.
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