Wagoneer axle help

[T.Joshua]

Hey guys...would like to say a quick hello as a new member. Anyways real brief before I have to head out to work - have a few questions.
So i am doing a front axle swap on my 1968 jeepster commando. most forums that i have been reading up on suggest a wagoneer dana 44 would work just fine, as well as JP magazine. So thats what i did! Finally found a wagoneer axle and now that I have it all ready to put on, i noticed that it is about 5 inches too wide. What do I do!?!? Its not as easy as moving the axle over to fit where the old perches used to be (as i am doing a leaf spring over as well). if i center it to where it should fit, my springs would be over the front dif. It kinda sounds as if i got the wrong axle. Which would not be a good thing at all. So what do I do without having to go through the trouble of getting another axle. eveyone said the the wagoneer would work. Why isnt it? did i get the wide track instead of the narrow? And i know some would say to cut the axle, however i neither have the proper tools, let alone the experience. Any suggestions before i start freaking out? My goal for now... is to at least get it running on 35s with front disc brakes. thanks again guys!

oh, and if it does come down to me needing to start from scratch again, how hard is it and what should i look for while out and about in the junkyard to convert the 6 lug to my 5?

[Tim]

Axles are a project that needs deep research before attempting. Front axles are especially difficult as you need to keep proper geometry for it to be safe and steer correctly. Doing a spring over axle is just one more item that adds difficulty to the equation. If your are determined on doing a soa conversion, it is best to start with an axle that was designed for that. Dodge and Chevy D-44's are the best candidates. As with the Waggie axles, they are wider than your stock axles and will require some extensive modifications to the axle and/or your rig to make it turn out correctly.

I would suggest that if you are not up to doing a project this extensive and not willing to have a qualified shop do the work, then you should consider a CJ Dana 30 with spring under axle and limit your tire size to 33". Be aware that the later CJ D-30's are called wide-track as they are 56" wms to wms compared to narrow-track D-30's that are 51.5" wms to wms. Fender flares would be warranted if the wide track axles are used.

If you're interested in how axles are shortened, here's a post I did a while back on how my axles were done: http://forums.off-road.com/jeepster-...hortening.html (Axle shortening)

[Trickpatrick]

Well Tim said what I would say.

To be blunt yes you bought the wrong axle.....

Based on your comments your new to this and the front axle as said is a big project. complicated to say the least.

You may have done this but I would say first ,you need to decide what your goal for you and the Jeepster is.

All out rockcrawler or Daily driver or some of both?

Heres my opinion And keep in mind I and many others who have to much experince are makeing this choice also.

Wide track D30 from a cj7.
Spring under.
2.5 to 3.5 lift springs.
33's inc tire.

Stay with this formula...

Bigger is NOt always better.
But it is more expensive and a pain in the butt....
And mostly not nessasary..

[AandMjeepster]

Tim and Trickpatrick are correct, it is a big project to make it work. That being said, spend some time using the seach function and look for threads about "outboarding the front springs" and "Waggy axle swaps". There are quite a few people on here who have gone that route. Spring under would save you some headache but you would still have to outboard your spring hangers to make it work. Don't forget about upgrading your steering.

Due to the complexity, the amount of fabrication involved, and time restraints; I went with the widetrack D30 from a cj.

Welcome to the forums and good luck with your project.

[HOWDY]

No biggie, 16 hours and $200 making wider frame mounts. 8 hours and $100 for building and installing perches SOA. $150 for high steer arms and $150 for knuckle machine work. $200 for new waggy steering rods, some mods. Going to need power steering. $50 on first aid, $800 trip to emergency room, $300 for beer (see E-room). New ring and pinion, new install kit, new locker, new brakes, new calipers, new bearings, new hubs, rims, tires. CALL DYNATRAC to do it for you, wish I did.

[T.Joshua]

Thanks for the quick replies guys...looks like I need to head back to the books. But to answer a few questions, or rather elaborate - my jeepster will be my daily driver but when it comes to the weekends, I am for sure out and about playing. That’s kind of why I want to get this rig running soon...in time for summer. Drive a little on the weekdays and play a lot on the weekends. As for size, I know size doesn’t matter but I have a perfectly good set of 35x12.50's in my garage waiting to be put on. On my last jeep, i ran 33x11.50's with no problem wanting a little bigger, that’s why when my buddy wanted to sell me his 35’s for $100, I couldn’t resist. If I found a cj dana 30, would it be possible to run the 35’s with a spring over? If not what should I look for this weekend when I hit up the junkyard? And as much as I don’t mind hittin the books, you guys rock when it comes to answers and questions. Thanks again guys for all the help.

[Trickpatrick]

Well you could run a D30 with 35's.
Its certainly been done.
Note: not sure which rear axle you said but, needs to be at least a D44 in this case forsure. Meaning 35's..

A D30 w/t would be good the extra width will keep the taller tire off the spring longer when turning.
And you could upgrade to stronger axle shafts down the road and keep the stock ones for backup.

If you are running the v6 that helps too.
Common scence would apply no landing on the front axle under full power etc.

A v8 or aggresive driving and then you may need to go to the D44 front.

But it will cost you and take a conciderable amount of time to setup first time out.

A brief list would be a Chevy D44.
Spring over .
Long side cut and new shorter axle shaft made.
Ford hubs to make it a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.
Convert to high steering ect.
$$$ and no wheeling this summer most likley as this will take time .

Again I would go with the W/T D30 out of a late Cj7.
You could use a D30 N/T out of a early CJ7 or a CJ5 but you will lose streering with the taller tire..

CJ 7 commonly have a higher R/P ratio and would need changing to match the back.

I paid 75.00 for an axle but have almost 800.00 in getting it setup all new parts.

This is your best option or comprimise for what you are wanting to do.

[T.Joshua]

Thanks again guys. I will take in all that has been advised and keep you all posted on progress. But then again i will more and likely have a few more questions down the road. Thanks again

[T.Joshua]

Alright guys...im back. So after doing more in depth research about the axle situation i started looking again, this time for a cj dana 30. I am determined to get this baby rollin by summertime. However, as most would already know, these axles are not as common as the wagoneer dana 44 that most junkyards have lyin around. Good news though (i hope). Just found a wide track Dana 30 from an 86 cj7 with the 3.73 gears (same as my rear...for now) oh - and a lockright locker. I guess the axles have superior chromoly axle shafts, inner and outer, and a warn internal hub kit. Is this it guys, should i snag it asap!?!?! Would i be able to toss this in the front with the soa and be good? Still want to use those 35s in the garage but if not...what the heck. That brings me to my next question actually, by changing both front and back gears...does that make the jeepster stronger - as in the 35s? Thanks again guys, looking forward to some feedback

[Trickpatrick]

Thats it.
Get it.