1970 VS 1969 Which to keep??

[Tim]

Originally Posted by rocjeepn

And.. how difficult would it be to swap the trannies?

Not easy, but not real difficult either. Just takes time and patience.

If you do have the Saginaw steering on the '70 with the stock 3 speed manual transmission, then if you wanted to swap in the TH-400 from the '69, you will need to use everthing behind the motor, (adapter from engine to TH-400, TH-400, adapter to Dana 20 transfer case and Dana 20 transfer case). If the '69's engine is stronger than the '70's, then you could pull the entire power train, (engine and all), out of the '69 and save the time of unbolting the trans from one to the other.

There are other items that will also need to be swapped, like drivelines and carrier bearing, (I don't think the manual tranny models had one), radiator with tranny cooler, shifters and linkages.

[rocjeepn]

Thank you so much for all the info! You have been most helpful! Going by your pictures, I would conclude that the '70 is a late model. It does have the turn signals on the side, not the reflectors, it does have the steering gear box up front on the side of the frame rail. Have to still check the rear axle. Will that Dana 44 in the rear hold up to the 35" tires? I know the Dana 27 wont.. what is the best front axle to use in the front? Dana 44 from a scout or wagoneer? Looks like the '70 is much stronger altogether. I have a Dana 44 swap into a Yj wrangler a few years back. I am not looking to run wide axles like the rock climbers.. But I will definatley need more room to turn those front tires, that I agree with. Again, and info is greatly appreciated!

[Tim]

Originally Posted by rocjeepn

Will that Dana 44 in the rear hold up to the 35" tires?

In "Jeep 4x4 Performance Handbook" by Jim Allen, there is a table with "Maximum Recommended Tire Sizes for Jeep Axles" which says below "For highway and moderate off-pavement use, stock engine."

Dana 27 - 31"
Dana 30 - 32"
Dana 30 - 33" (used in '87-'97 Wranglers)
Dana 44 - 32" (tapered)
Dana 44 - 35" (flanged)
Dana 60 - 33" (tapered)
Dana 60 - 38" (flanged)
Dana 60 - 44" (full-float)
Dana 70 - 44"
AMC 20 - 32" (tapered)
AMC 20 - 35" (aftermarket flanged coversion)

Originally Posted by rocjeepn

what is the best front axle to use in the front? Dana 44 from a scout or wagoneer?

If your stuck on 35" tires, then I'd go with a D-44. Problem is that the narrowest D-44F made was from a Scout II at appx. 57" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, (wms). Your stock D-27F & D-44R are 50" wms to wms, so unless your willing to pay to have an axle narrowed, it's gonna stick out a bunch and look funny compared to the 50" rear, but would have a great turning radius compared to what you presently have now. Another problem with the Scout D-44F is they all have zero degrees of caster, (except 1980 model, which had 1 1/2 degrees). Jeeps like between 4 to 6 degrees of caster, so changing caster would be more involved.

Wagoneer D-44F's run appx. 59" wms to wms, but have the correct caster. I narrowed a set of Wagoneer D-44's to 56", (Wide-Track CJ width), and added fender flares for the previous version of my rig, which are now residing on my brother-in-law's '71 in the first posted pic and below. I did use 33" tires, but not the usual 12.50's. I went with 255/85R16's which measure 33.3" tall by 10" wide. This kept the tread inside the flares for street legality and the skinnier tires allow for a sharper turning radius.

There are lots of options to choose from. If you like the stance of the stock width axles, then I'd probably look for a narrow-track D-30F with disk brakes which is appx. 51.5" wms to wms and go with the 255/85R16's or 33x10.50R15's.

Stopping with 35's will be a real challenge unless changes have been made to upgrade the brakes. Also re-gearing the axles should be considered to regain some of the power lost from going to bigger diameter tires.

[Truckzilla]

RocJeepn,

You should have all the makins' for one great little jeep with what you have. Everything is interchangeable so take the best from each and build one rig. Use the 70 chassis. We'll hope it has the D44 rear axle and it does have the Saginaw steering. Swapping the trannies is a bolt in project. You should even find the other set of bolt holes for the tranny crossmember on the chassis about 6 inches back from the manual position.

Pick the best of the two engines cuz it will bolt right in. (Note: the 225 is a great engine with lots of low end torque and will get you most anywhere). You can always upgrade to a Buick V8 later but while it too will bolt in you will have to clear some space in the front and cooling seems to be an issue unless you spend a lot of money.

The ony part you'll have trouble finding is the rear part of the e-brake cable which is shorter in the a/t than the manual. You can get along for a while with the D27 front axle or go find a mid 70's Cherokee axle and cut it to fit. Hell there's a guy right there in Portland that can help you thru a lot of the transition and even sell you disk brakes for the front.

Pick the body you like best and bolt it on and you are good to go. No welding, no cutting required. Have fun. I wish I was in your position.