Full size axles?

Grantshire · #21 05-14-2007, 09:47 AM

Been traveling so I am just seeing this. IMHO the best rear axle, and easy to find, is the Dana 44 from an 87-91 Grand Wagoneer. They are centered Dana 44's like a Scout and about 3/4"-1" wider (also 6 lug). Knocking the SUA perches off and re-welding for SOA is a piece of cake - you have to move the spring perches in anyway to put them unde a CJ or Commando (I am not a fan of outboarding).

For the front axle, I prefer the WT Dana 44's from the J series FSJ trucks or WT Cherokee Chiefs. They are factory set-up as SUA, available with passenger or driver's side pumpkins, and will need the long side shortened (assuming you are using the cast in spring perch on the short side) to CJ/Commando perch width. The finished or "shortened" width is pretty darn close to a non shortened Wagoneer axle width.

If you are going SOA you will have to do some grinding and weld a SOA perch on the short side or use a Chevy or Dodge Dana 44 that came from the factory SOA (they are both wider than a NT FSJ 44 so you will still need to narrow them).

I have the 87 FSJ centered rear 44 and narrowed J truck Dana 44 under my Scrambler with a 6" SUA lift (4" Alcans, 1" body, 1" shackle) running 4.10 gears and 35x12.50 BFG's. I like this setup so much that I am doing the same thing on my 69 Commando project, except the Commando will be SOA with high steer. I modified a SUA J truck axle (already had it) for SOA and narrowed it just over 4". When finished, the Commando will have 35x12.50 Mud Terrains.

With the above axles the front comes out wider than the rear just like Jeep came from the factory. In my case, I run 8" rims in front (I like 8" rims on the turning wheels when aired down) and 10" in back. This makes the track exactly the same front and back. I have 6" Bushwacker flares on front and back to cover the additional tire widths.

chains20 · #22 05-14-2007, 11:33 AM

Great info!!! ok I like all of the information im getting and its good to know theres more then one way to skin this cat but since i dont have a welding cabability yet i have to ask if anybody has just bought axles like curries or anything and how it compared in price? I would like to do my own work but like i daid do not have welding cabability. I tried calling some local shops and just kinda got the run around for them welding the housing and spring perches on. anybody have examples of how much this should cost? I do want to run 35's so what size axles would you recommend? I was thinking that since the jeepster is so lite the 44's would work but if not its better to know now.

LCAC_Man · #23 05-14-2007, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chains20

Great info!!! ok I like all of the information im getting and its good to know theres more then one way to skin this cat but since i dont have a welding cabability yet i have to ask if anybody has just bought axles like curries or anything and how it compared in price? I would like to do my own work but like i daid do not have welding cabability. I tried calling some local shops and just kinda got the run around for them welding the housing and spring perches on. anybody have examples of how much this should cost? I do want to run 35's so what size axles would you recommend? I was thinking that since the jeepster is so lite the 44's would work but if not its better to know now.

Unless you just plain don't have the room to do this work yourself I would buy a small (135amp) wirefeed/mig welder (you can stay with flux core wire and eliminate the need for a gas bottle) and teach yourself, it took me all of a week to have it down. You'll save enough just on this one project to pay for your whole set up.
Practice with scrap of the same thickness as your project then start with the rear doing the perches and then move to the front. Welding the thick stuff (1/8" and up) is a piece of cake, sheetmetal requires a little more patience.
You'll wonder why you ever paid someone to do it for you.

chains20 · #24 05-15-2007, 10:10 AM

Yes room can be an issue but i might be able to make it work. A 135 is big enough to do the housing and such? When i worked at the body shop i was told that to do the thicker stuff that i would need a 220V welder (which is still a little out of my price range). Do you know a good source for used elders?

Matt

LCAC_Man · #25 05-15-2007, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chains20

Yes room can be an issue but i might be able to make it work. A 135 is big enough to do the housing and such? When i worked at the body shop i was told that to do the thicker stuff that i would need a 220V welder (which is still a little out of my price range). Do you know a good source for used elders?

Matt

Yes, 135 amp is plenty, 220v has a better duty cycle but 110v is fine you just may have to wait for the machine to cool down on occassion. Use .035" fluxcore wire. Preheat the thicker areas with a propane torch and you'll be fine. I bought my brand new 175 amp lincoln on ebay for less than $500 shipped.
Here's an option:
eBay: Genuine LINCOLN sp 135 t MIG WELDER NEW 120V K1873-1 (item 110125946864 end time May-17-07 20:46:14 PDT)

chains20 · #26 05-15-2007, 12:43 PM

Sweet! ok I will look at getting me a welder

Thank you for all of the help. now if 44'd arnt recommended what size axles for the budget builder would you recommend?

LCAC_Man · #27 05-15-2007, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chains20

now if 44'd arnt recommended what size axles for the budget builder would you recommend?

This depends on what your intent is for your rig:
1) Is 35" tires the biggest you'll ever go?
2) You seem to be focusing on axles that are close to stock width is that important to your build? Trailer fitment?
3) Do you already have wheels and tires that you've invested in?
-
If the answer is "no" or "I'm not sure" to all of the above I would look for a Cab and Chassis (C&C) 14bolt, they can be had for $200 at most yards they measure in at around 63", then I would look for a dodge ramcharger front d44 and swap the outers to 8lug to match the 14bolt pattern, this axle is about
65" wide and can also be had in the $200 range.
Then just buy wheels with some extra backspacing if you want to keep the width down. With anything above 35's you'll be glad to have the extra width for turning radius/tire clearance issues.
My front axle is 72" wide but I'm running stock H1 wheels with 7.25" of backspace so it keeps my overall width (at the tire sidewall) at 81" which will fit my buddies trailer with a smidge to spare.

chains20 · #28 05-16-2007, 06:09 PM

Trailer? It will be street driven. I would like to be able to cover the tires with at the most the pocket cutout flares from bushwacker. Will i be able to do this with those widths? if so that sounds pretty easy. Also does that mean I would have to outboard the the front springs as I would rather not have to do that. Only 100% investment is the engine tranny transfercase so far (well the jeepster too). 35's will probably be the biggest as its not that much bigger then a CJ.

Thank you for continuation of all the help.

Tim · #29 05-16-2007, 06:38 PM

FYI, I am using 7" Warn Trail Flares to cover the tread on my rig. The front is 62" wms to wms, while the rear is 60". The tires are 37x12.50R17's on 17"x10" wheels. The 7" flares just cover the tread in front with the sidewall sticking out further. The rears would have been covered fine with 6" flares, but they came in a set of four.

Grantshire · #30 05-17-2007, 08:21 AM

Tim and I have the same width rear axle (my Scrambler and Commando axles are the same). I have 6" Xennon flares on my Scrambler (Scrambler flare kit that has 6" rears and 4.5-5" front flares) and 6" Bushwacker pocket flares on the Commando, both of which cover the 35x12.50 tires nicely (10" rims in back). Also, like Tim, my front axle is wider, about 62-63" WMS/WMS. On the Scrambler with 8" rims and the 5" flares the tires tread peaks out about 1" on both sides. On the Commando with the 6" Bushwacker they will not as long as I stay with the 8" rims. If I use 10" rims in front the tread will stick out from under the flare just over 1".