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  #21  
Old 12-24-2005, 01:38 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

The only kit that I know of with the accel pump is the Borg Warner kit. Jiffy kits don't. Carb rebuild shops will have them too.

Most likely you don't need a kit if you are careful with the top gasket - go easy on it. If it's stuck, spray it with a light penetrating oil, like PB blaster.

Remove the carb, remove the linkages on the side, remove the top screws, remove the top carefully.

Look in the venturis - remove the one screw - pull the cluster straight up and out - careful of the gasket under it. The tiny pump nozzle hole is probably plugged.

Unplug it, reassemble and enjoy.

Since the one tube is squirting fine, the accel pump is working OK, just the passage is plugged in the cluster. The only place the fuel gets separated for the 2 nozzles is in the cluster.

Test it before putting it back together - you can put carb cleaner or rubbing alcohol (safer than gasoline) in the bowl and push the accel piston down. The path of fuel is out the bottom of the accel well to the area around the cluster's bolt, then out the nozzles. You can test to make sure the plug is gone.

Sometimes you need a very small wire to clear out a passage - good source is a piece of stranded wire - strip a hunk long enough, then use one strand of it.

While you are doing the rest, if the accel cup is leather, soak it in salad oil. It makes them softer and rejuvinates them.

Super easy, as that carb is probably one of the simplest carbs ever made. It's a great carb for someone to learn on.
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  #22  
Old 12-24-2005, 03:43 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

OK, the carb job was easier than you indicated, if you can believe that!!! I yanked it off, took it apart and found that once again you were absolutely correct - the accelerator pump worked fine. The one hole was partially blocked and the other completely blocked. Incidently, the pump itself was made of plastic and the plunger part is rubber. It didn't even show signs of wear.

So, I fired it up and gave it a test and the same results - hesitation. Whats more, if I stomp the pedal and hold it to the floor it will back fire.

I guess at this juncture I need to review the other non- accelerator suggestions.

Regards,
Gary
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  #23  
Old 12-24-2005, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Well Gary, the bright side of this whole exercise is that you will know how to trouble shoot and tune up an older carburated GM engine really well by the time this is all over.
I need to mention that you can get a backfire even on carburator related hesitation, so don't discount the carb just yet.
However, the next things to look for are in the ignition circuit. You need to make sure all the basics are there before you can carry on. If equipped with points, check point gap, use a dwell meter if possible. Make sure the distributor flyweights are working well, you should be able to move them away from the center post maually, and you should see the center post rotate ahead when you do this.
Check the rotor for cracks, any pencil line arcing to ground, etc.
Check cap for cracks, pencil line arcing between terminals or to cap edge.
Check all wires, no corrosion allowed, resistance should be within acceptable limits.
Plugs should be gapped to spec, and in good shape, if unsure, replace.
Check coil tower, there should be no traces of arcing between the secondary and the primary terminals. The tower needs to be very clean, the insulator boots on the h.t. wire need to be in good shape. Make sure the wire seats into the tower at the cap and the coil fully.
When running unit, check with a timing light, make sure timing is ok, make sure vacccuum addvance is working, make sure mechanical advance is working. Run at RPM. the timing should be 20+ degrees. Check again for vaccuum leaks, use a vaccuum guage, vaccuum should be about 17 to 20 In. when timing and carburetor are adjusted properly.
The other possibility. although remote, is that your harmonic balancer may have slipped, this may mean that your timing marks are out to lunch. You may want to time so that you get the highest possible vaccuum reading, then see if problem persists. But do not drive it this way for any length of time, today's fuels will give you lots of preignition when timing is set this way.

Good luck, Merry Christmas

Bernie
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  #24  
Old 12-24-2005, 08:20 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Bernie,

I'll do the inspections tomorrow. Right now I am stuck because I do not own a Dwell Meter. Probably be next weekend before I buy one. As for the timing, I cannot get at the bolt the bolts down the Distibutor. But the timing is way off. Whit the engine hot, idle RPM, the timing is below zero. I'll get a wrench for that bolt next weekend also.

The one question I do have now is what is the Dash Pot? That is, what does it do? Mine does not touch the throttle linkage as specified in the JSM. Nor can it be screwed around to touch the throttle lingage. At least the way things are set now. Right now it is completely useless.

Merry Christmas,
Gary
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2005, 08:39 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

They are really simple! I assume you got the nozzle unplugged.

Bernie said it in a nutshell.

Check for a thin blue spark at the plug end of the wire - means you are getting sufficient voltage.
Most common prob with ignition stumble is a bad coil wire - best is to swap with a known good one and try it.

Timing - If you don't have a vacuum gauge, simply twist the distributor at idle to get the highest RPM, then turn it clockwise a tad (if I remember correctly, the distributor turns clockwise. If not, go the other way - you want less advance.) Shut it off, restart, if it kicks, back it off a little more till it no longer kicks back. You should then be 12 - 14 degrees initial.

And try it without the vacuum line to the distributor connected.

Can you nurse it up to higher RPM, or it just won't go up at all no matter what you do?
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  #26  
Old 12-24-2005, 10:41 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

I had a similar problem in my 225 before the 4.3 swap a few years ago.
I chased it around and never found it. Even after a valve job. Turned out to be a stuck valve in the redone heads.
Had the heads warrantied out and last I heard the motor was doing fine for the new owner.
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2005, 01:42 AM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Re Dashpot:

Gary, the dashpot is a small "shock absorber" that mounts on the side of the carb, with the end of the piston push rod touching the throttle as it closes. What it does, and it seems to me it was only used on automatics, is prevent stalling when the throttle is suddenly closed. With automatic transmissions, the convertor would drag an engine down to below its idle speed on sudden throttle closures, especially when in gear, and this would cause stalling. The dashpot would cushion the throttle closure, and let it close slowly for the last little bit, sot that the engine would not stall.
It should not have any bearing on your problem.
I forgot to mention earlier that another place to look for trouble is the primary ignition wire form the coil to the distributor. Sometimes they fray where they enter the dirstibutor, the worst case scenario would be a wire that is bare and shorting to surrounding metal (ground) when the vaccuum and/or mechanical advance move ahead. So make sure that small 16 gauge wire is in good shape throughout its length. As well, ensure that the points (if so equipped) have decent spring tension.

Regards,

Bernie
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  #28  
Old 12-25-2005, 09:41 AM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Thanks Bernie. Thats good I don't need the Dash Pot because the one thats there would never make the reach to the throttle assembly. I suspect its there only because they used to put auto tranmissions in these Jeepsters. I have the manual 3 speed.


I'll get on those wires and inspections later this morning but I seriously doubt I'll find the problem there. Pete went through all of that and almost all the wirning is new. That includes the cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. However, it doesn't run right, so something is wrong some where so I will check out all possibilities.

Regards,
Gary
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2005, 01:07 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Untill you get to the distributor bolt and adjust the timing, I think you need to focus on that. That bolt is a hard one to get too. Don't waste money on a "special" distributor wrench as I have found they don't work for this configuration. Only way I have found to loosen this bolt is a long thin open end wrench and you have to flip it back & forth to take advantage of the small opening. Also helps to move the fuel filter & gas line bracket out of the way.

I bought, but have not tried an offset, ratcheting box end wrench and a stubby box/open end wrench for this bolt. Don't know if either are the answer at this point. Also thought about getting a regular wrench and cutting/bending/etc. to make one that will work. Just not enough time.

Brad.
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2005, 10:01 PM
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Default Re: Dauntless Stall Issue

Bernie and Brad,

OK, I went out there and starting doing the inspections. Everything looked good except the condensor wire - it arched up to high and was hitting the bottom of the advance/rotor assembly and was ground down to the wires which were blackened from the spark arching to the advance/rotor assembly.

The points looked a bit pitted so I will replace them when I get a new condensor.

I did manage to get a closed end wrench on the distributor bolt when I moved the fuel lines - good suggestion from Brad on that one.

Getting the plugs in/out was tuff with the craftsman plug socket. It bound up with the block. If any body knows of a good plug wrench I would appreciate knowing about it.

One last thing. The plugs were very white. An indication that is running lean. That I believe would fit with what the guys at that donut shop did to get it through emmisions.

I will get the points and condensor on Wendesday along with a dwell meter and hopefully get the electrical stuff fixed then.

Regards,
Gary
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