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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Painting questions

Over the winter I have been sanding! I palm sanded the outside of the tub untill only clean metal remained. The tub looked great, and cost me less than it would have if I sent it out to be sand/media blasted. I have since shot it with primer and it looks good! I am doing all this work to try to lower the cost of my paint job. I figured I could do the manual labor of sanding and the basic job of priming, but I would leave the finish painting to someone who dose it for a living. When I get the paint job, I want it both outside and inside the tub, which leads me to ask this question... Do I need to completely strip all the original paint and primer from the inside of the Jeep (dash, doors ect.) before I shoot it with primer? Will the primer adhere if I only scuff up the interior paint with 60 grit paper? There is no rust inside the tub to deal with, so I am only looking to paint the inside to match the new paint outside.
Strip sanding all the nooks and corners inside the tub is a major pain! If I don't have to do it, I dont want to!
Thanks for the advice,
Nathan
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 10:41 AM
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Re: Painting questions

No need to strip at all. No need to prime everthing either. Just the repairs. Paint sticks to paint just fine. Just take off all the bad stuff if any and scuff the rest. 60 may be a little coarse though, that will probably show through.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 10:53 AM
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Re: Painting questions

Go down to your local auto paint supplier and get a handful of red scotchbrite pads. They're the equivelent of about 320 grit. If you go any coarser than that you'll have scratch marks showing through your new shiny paint! [img]images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] And Tom's right- you only need to prime any repairs you've made. The painter will apply a sealer to the whole thing before he paints.
Hope it comes out beautiful! [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Painting questions

Thanks for the help guys! I'll make sure to take some pictures when the Jeep is done.
I think I am going to get it painted 'shale green', the new green that Jeep is using on the wrangler. What do you think?
Nathan
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 06:55 PM
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Re: Painting questions

what kind of primer did you use ? if was NOT apoxy [2 part ] wash it off with thinner and get some 2 part apoxy primer from a body shop supply place .... the scotch brite pads are the way to go for the int.. [60 grit is used for body work first then 80 and so on] [img]images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 07:02 PM
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Re: Painting questions

Please tell me you did not prime over 60 grit scratches on the outside of the body! You need a minimum of 180grit paper before you prime. No primer will fill 60 or 80 grit. If you did, go over the primer with 180 again. Then shoot a couple of good heavy coats before you wet sand the primer with 320grit. I would really hate for you to do all that work and have it look worse than Maaco. Let me know if you need more tips. I have done 1 or 2 cars before (1 or 2 thousand) so I have a few ideas on what works. [img]images/graemlins/40BEER.gif[/img]
post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2004, 08:41 PM
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Re: Painting questions

O.K. I'm not claiming to be the final word, and certainly not an expert, but I have put bread and butter on the table for several years of my life by doing auto body work. unfortunately I haven't done much in the past 3 or 4 years, and the paint industry has been changing their formulas right and left. You're getting some good info from members of this board! Soooo...
Exterior- do your repairs, then prime any bare metal (or the entire thing) with PPG Omni Epoxy primer. It's fairly cheap, but good. Follow up with Martin senour high build urethane primer (I'm blanking on the paint numbers, I'll check tomorrow if you want it)on the entire repaired areas. Block with 220 wrapped on a paint paddle, then fog on some black spray paint and block again with 320. when everything is level and smooth it's ready for paint. if you have questions, feel free to e-mail me. If I've given you enough info to confuse you---ignore me! I am a little behind on the recent innovations with paint formulation. I've found recently that while the paint companies are trying to comply with new regulations, the paint properties are suffering. Your local guys may be more up to date with suggestions. Happy painting!
megan
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2004, 12:21 AM
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Re: Painting questions

You're right on the formulas. I actually had to buy the good stuff (paint) in the next county, because my county doesn't allow certain product sales.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-31-2004, 11:01 PM
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Re: Painting questions


I hate being the paranoid cry baby, but here goes again. Check the chemical composition of the paint. Check for iso-cyanates being used as a glossing agent. Do a search on the internet and learn about the hazards of this chemical. There may be very good reasons why sales were suspended in your county.

The newer paints require a water screen paint booth and full sealed clothing with an external breathing device. This stuff is not suitable for weekend use and is a deadly poison. Make sure you know what your're doing before you risk the health of you and your family.

Chris in Texas
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Painting questions

Thanks for all the help guys! I did not use such a course grit paper on the outside of the tub. The outside has been primed and looks good. I used a primer from the makers of POR-15. It's called "Tie-Coat Primer". It is described as "a very tough amd sandable single-component polyurethane." I bought the primer because I used POR-15 on certan parts of the Jeep and this primer is designed to work with the POR-15 without any sanding of the POR-15. I have been pleased with just how tough the POR-15 epoxy type paint has been. Hopefully this primer will be as good.
I don't know a thin about automotive primers or finishers. What is the advantage to the two stage epoxy primers you guys are talking about? With all the work I have put into restoring the body, I don't want to have to strip and paint this Jeep ever again!!! I'm looking to do the job right the first time. So far, only the outside of the Jeep has been shot with primer.
Your ideas have already been a big help. Keep it comming!
Thanks,
Nathan
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