front axle unit

#21 02-25-2003, 09:42 PM

Try locking in the front hubs, that should keep the pinion from turning (as long as the front wheels are on the ground).
It definately helps to have a little patience when working on these old wrecks...
[img]images/graemlins/cussing.gif[/img]
Paul

Caver Dave · #22 02-25-2003, 10:21 PM

I just locked the hubs, used a cheater pipe over a sacrificial 1/2" rachet (to reach the spring), and watched it while my wife moved it backwards in low range. Popped pretty good (nearly crapped my drawers!) and loosened enough to remove by hand. Took about 5mins. total.

Hurcules · #23 02-26-2003, 12:04 AM

OMG caver, that is pretty funny to picture, but I guess it works. My suggestion would be to pull off the front driveshaft and take the Jeep over to a shop, any shop that has nice people, and have them put it on the rack and zip that nut of with a big impact wrench. $10 to the guy, drive it back home and change out the seal. Getting that much torque back on there should not be as hard. Like I said before, I think there is a crush sleeve in there for pinion pre-load, this needs to be adjusted properly, the pinion depth is adjusted by shims and should not be an issue, but I need to look at a diagram to see what all is in there. A lot of the dana axles take different stuff, I have never taken apart a 27 R&P myself.

Big_Al · #24 02-26-2003, 01:47 AM

Thanks everyone...great ideas. So I see it is difficult to take this thing off. I thought I was just getting old and frustrated. I think I am going to try all 3 in the order above...lock the front wheels and try again...then low gear and reverse...then off to a friend who owns the local Cooper Tire store. Don't know what I would do without this service. Big Al

Big_Al · #25 02-26-2003, 08:10 PM

Making some progress now...thanks again guys. Had to use the impact wrench my son showed up with. Now gear puller for the yoke and I'm in. What a learning experience, especially on the cement floor of the carport with the temp in the 30's. Having a blast. Noticed no drain plug on the front differential...am I to assume as soon as I break lose the seals it will all come running out??? Got the pan off the bottom of the transfer case and next I plan on doing the rear seal of it ... the front looks fine. The rear diff. does too. I have already done the oil pan. Had a lot of leaks but none too major. The gear oil everywhere is nasty dirty smelly. Probably never been replaced. Thanks again John's, Brad and whoever else has responded so pleasantly and promptly. Big Al

Caver Dave · #26 02-27-2003, 02:01 PM

There aren't any "drain plugs" on the diffs. Just remove the bolts on the covers and it'll run out (have the catch pan waiting!). I ususally leave a bolt loose on top of the cover to keep it from popping off and landing in the catch pan (90w is a pain to clean off). Then lightly pry the bottom of the cover (if it doesn't seperate anyway) and let it drain.