Motor/Transmission Mounts

Rockcrusher · #1 10-29-2002, 09:35 PM

Anyone have any part numbers/suppliers for motor and transmission mounts for a '68 225V6/TH400 Jeepster? I prefer polyurethane but OEM equivalents will do. Thanks gang!!!

67JPsTrConv · #2 10-29-2002, 09:47 PM

I use motor mnts for a 77 monza with a 231
John P.

Tim · #3 10-30-2002, 01:41 AM

I don't believe that urethane motor mounts are available for the Buick V-6. The trans mount can be had in urethane, but rubber will provide a better cushion and isolate vibration better than poly will. If you want new rubber mounts they are available from Crown Autoparts dealers. Motor mounts are part #'s 1369788 for the right and 1371313 for the left. Should run appx. $35 for the pair. The trans mount is part # 1370910 and is appx. $14. The closest dealers to you would be:

California

Capitol Jeepers Supply / 3130 Fulton Ave. Sacramento, CA. 95821 (916) 481-2326

Mefford & Hood Off-Road / 100 E. Inyo Ave. Tulare, CA. 93274 (888) 686-6319
www.meffordhood.com

Specialty Parts / 217 Old County Rd. #8 San Carlos, CA. 94070 (800) 504-5337

Surplus City / 4514 Pacific Heights Rd. & Hwy. 70 Oroville, CA. 95965 (800) 353-3772 www.surplusjeep.com

Rockcrusher · #4 10-30-2002, 08:45 AM

Tim,

Thanks for the info ... It has been duly entered into my database of non-standard standard Jeepster parts.

michael · #5 10-30-2002, 11:24 AM

I am going to get a universal one from Extreme Gear Offroad Inc in Sacramento for under $40. you have to drill the holes, but since my TH-400 has a new tailshaft on it for the Atlas it is my best option.
Luck,
Michael

Rockcrusher · #6 11-03-2002, 03:52 PM

I found a substitute for the transmission mount - NAPA P/N 6201031 - About 8 bux.

I gotta say though that the transmission mount setup on a Jeepster is, without a doubt, the stupidest design ever conceived by man. When time permits I will do a redesign and writeup using readily available parts.

jeepstrmanAL · #7 11-03-2002, 07:12 PM

Bob, What I started doing 30 years ago when I had my 4 wheel drive shop in San Jose was take the metal plate that's bolted to the aluminum adapter and drop it down to the cross member and weld it there. Then put a mount between it and the adaptor. That way it does not break the ears off the adaptor. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Rockcrusher · #8 11-03-2002, 08:09 PM

Once I got the petrified gunk out of the way I found out the ears are broken off the adapter ... and have been for quite a while. Hopefully I have another to replace it. I'll probably end up replacing the stock X-member with an aftermarket unit to get rid of that patently stupid plate arrangement.

jeepstrmanAL · #9 11-03-2002, 08:28 PM

Rockcrusher,
I have fixed dozens of the adaptors. All you have to do is make an aluminum plate 3/8 thick across the bottom and mig it there and drill new holes and put new seals and it's ready to go, after you modify the mount so it won't break agin. [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Tim · #10 11-03-2002, 08:43 PM

I just had my brother-in-law's adapter repaired. It too had one of the ears broken and in the process of pulling it out, the other ear broke. They were welded back together and the holes were drilled out. The original adapter design was for the holes to be tapped for threads, thus the bolts never came thru to attach washers and nuts to. Over time, the original bolts would back their way out and being loose would cause the adapter to twist around, eventually resulting in breakage. After repairing, longer bolts were used and lock nuts on top to secure it. Those of you that haven't checked your's lately, might want to see if it's together and secured properly. You could also drill out the holes for longer bolts and lock nuts. Another option if it's broke beyond repair would be the Novak adapter, which has been beefed-up some over the original design. Price is around $260, I think.