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Well, there are alot of loose ends to wrap up (literally) but the bulk is done. the headlight section is left because I don't have the clip on, and I'm going to switch columns etc. One note that is worth mentioning is that the dash lights are a brown, 16 gauge (i think) wire that has to be spliced in with the same female spade connector as the rear park lights. Then, you go to the bat+ connection on the aformentioned reostat, joined with, in my case, the wire to the stereo that senses lights to dim the panel. On the other side of the reostat, make a small jumper wire of the left over length of the same wire and go to the "D" plug on the dash. One thing I forgot, is that this jumper wire should also have a second wire attached that routes under the console for the light for the shifter.
I'm nearly done, but if anyone has questions (Tim) about the painless rewire, let me know and I'll try my best.
Michael
Found a mistake tonight, take note.
There are 2 park light posts on the headlight switch, the dash lights should be tied to the rear park lights, NOT the front ones, since those go off when the switch to set to headlights.
Michael
Now my mind is thinkin', (oh no, not that again), the Punkin is a '71 with front and rear side marker lights. I'm thinkin' that they stay on in both switch positions and that the front parking lights do too. Anyone with a '71 that can confirm this?
something else I just found.
The brake lights gain power from the orange wire to the brake light switch. When connected, it sends power to the yellow and green wires that are in the column. THERFORE, if you have not completed the column wiring you cannot test the brake lights without temporarily twisting the white, yellow and green column wires together.
Tim, for your fronts, regardless of how stock is, it is a simple addition to run an additional wire from the Bat+ side of the reostat/dimmer to the side markers. If it's on the wrong side you end up dimming them with the dash lights. Use the stock, brown wire in the headlight harness to make the front park lights go off in headlight position. If you have, or add rear side markers, those can gain power from the same rear brown, park-light power as the taillights because it's constant.
On the stock switch, the bottom-most post is for the front and the side is for the rear.
Michael
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Painless wiring progress 
) but the bulk is done. the headlight section is left because I don't have the clip on, and I'm going to switch columns etc. One note that is worth mentioning is that the dash lights are a brown, 16 gauge (i think) wire that has to be spliced in with the same female spade connector as the rear park lights. Then, you go to the bat+ connection on the aformentioned reostat, joined with, in my case, the wire to the stereo that senses lights to dim the panel. On the other side of the reostat, make a small jumper wire of the left over length of the same wire and go to the "D" plug on the dash. One thing I forgot, is that this jumper wire should also have a second wire attached that routes under the console for the light for the shifter.
Linear Mode
