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Old 09-17-1999, 06:42 AM
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Default Lock Rite install in a D30

I have the opportunity to get a used Lock Rite for a Dana 30 at a good price. I have 4.10 gears, will I have to remove the ring gear in order to install it, or does it really go in as easily as advertised?
Any web pages out there with an install page for a D30?

TIA,
Chris

'79 CJ-7
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Old 09-17-1999, 07:36 AM
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Default Re: Lock Rite install in a D30

Did it last winter. very easy. The worst part was stretching the housing so it would release and accept the carrier.

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Old 09-17-1999, 08:33 AM
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Default Re: Lock Rite install in a D30

I take it then that the D30 has the two "dowel pin holes" (one on either side of the cover) allowing the use of a case spreader. ...if one doesn't have a case speader .....it sure is a pain to get the carrier out.

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Old 09-17-1999, 12:36 PM
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Default Re: Lock Rite install in a D30

Just finished doing this about 2 months ago:

YES, you will need to remove the ring gear. This is not that big a deal. You simply remove the bearing caps, being sure that you keep them straight, which is not hard as there are usually marks on the caps and on the diff to line up. you then remove the carrier using 1 or 2 pry bars and an extra set of hands. You don't have to worry about shims, because they are under the bearings. Take the carrier and put it in a vice. remove the ring gear bolts. Install the lock right. put the ring gear back on, torque them down to spec. Put the carrier back into the diff, put the bearing caps back on the right side and torque down the bolts - I think 57 ft lbs on the bearing cap bolts. I'm not sure about the ring gear bolts, But I can look it up if you want. The hardest part is getting the carrier back into the housing, at least for me. This took a couple pairs of hands, a piece of wood (to place against the bearing race to hammer on), a hammer, and some very gentle persuasion.

Once you install the lock right you will see that it is MUCH easier to do on a bench than trying to do it with the carrier in the housing.

Once you've done it you'll think "What has I worried about?". Of course, all this means you have to remove the axles first. To do this you will need a 13 mm 12 point 1/2 drive socket and perhaps a pry bar to remove the hub bolts. Be sure to never seize them when putting them back.

The other bit of advice I have is how to install the inner passenger side axle. This took me forever until one day I figured out the trick. You put in the inner axle until it rests against the side gears of the lock right. You then put a pry bar in the outer end of the tube and ON TOP of the end of the inner axle that is outside of the seal, so you can push DOWN on it. You use your fingers as a 'fulcrum' in the center where the disconnect vacuum motor is, and use the pry bar to push down and raise the end of the axle that is against the lock right. If you don't do this, you will not be able to get enough leverage on the axle at the vacuum motor to raise it high enough to enter the side gear.

Anyway, I've had my front diff apart twice now in the last 2 months, and I can say it is not that difficult. email me for more instructions or a phone number and I can talk you through it if you want.

Chad

clloyd@tsi.bc.ca

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Old 09-17-1999, 01:21 PM
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Default Re: Lock Rite install in a D30

Thanks Chad! Mine is a '79 D30, so there is no vacum disconnect, but besides that I'm sure its pretty much the same. Is it possible to use a housing spreader on the D30? I know where I can borrow one for free.
Also...would this be a good time to replace the inner axle seals? D30's have them right?

'79 CJ-7
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Old 09-17-1999, 02:50 PM
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Default Re: Lock Rite install in a D30

Don't know the answer to the case spreader question, I 've always done it like Chad mentioned. The answer to the second question is "Yes," they do have inner seals and now is a good time to replace them, especially if you run in water. They're easy just pop 'em out and pop the new ones in.
Shain

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