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  #1  
Old 01-31-2001, 04:39 PM
jsmith
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Default Trak-Lok??

I saw the previous post about "How do I know if I have a Trak-Lok" and it got me wondering if my 77 CJ5 had one. I finally found the code stamp on my rear 20 and it has an "N" which corresponds to a Trak-Lok with 3.54 gears, according to the AMC 20 page on offroad.com. My question is on the function of the Trac-Lok. If I jack the rearend up, put the tranny in neutral, and spin a tire, they spin in different directions. If I start it up and put it in gear with it jacked up they both spin in the same direction but I can stop one of the wheels and the other keeps spinning. Don't open differentials spin in different directions if jacked up and running? I just went into some soft snow to see if both wheels would spin at the same time, and they did. Question is, is my trac-loc working correctly or is it worn out? I am not sure exactly how they are suppose to function. The Jeep only has 35,000 original miles on it. I did a search on the board and did not find what I was looking for, and as stated before the Haynes manual does not even mention the Trac-Lok. Sorry this is a little long, and thanks in advance.

I'm not a Jeepaholic, I can stop jeepin any time I want.
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2001, 05:58 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

I am wondering the same thing. I have a 76 CJ5 with AMC 20 with a big N stamped on the top of the housing. I tried the same thing, jacking it up and found exactly like you did. I opened my dif. cover and thought it looked like an open dif.,but after seeing a few in catalogs I am not sure. ????is the carrier more squared off on a trak-loc and more rounded on a open????

Rich

76 CJ5 304 "its a JEEP thing, I hope you understand"
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2001, 06:06 PM
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

Your TrashLoc is worn out.
There are clutch or (friction) plates behind each of the side gears that should limit the side gears from turning within the carrier. Hence the term limited slip. If you can grab a tire bare handed and stop it then obviously it takes little to no effort to open the diff. This will provide next to no assistance when on a rock.
You can replace these friction plates, but for the cost of new ones and the headache to replace I would definately recommend a new traction aiding device.
EZ locker or Lockrite will not work with your trashloc carrier so a full detroit is going to be the best bet! [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif[/img][img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

RocknCJ [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif[/img]
If it breaks...
Don't fix it !

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  #4  
Old 01-31-2001, 06:15 PM
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

or you could buy another open carreir, $10-$40 used
and ad a lockright,about ( I think) $250 new, $150-$200 used



OzarkJeep

"If thats the way that you want it, well thats the way I want it more..."
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2001, 06:28 PM
jsmith
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

I just got a good deal on a new Powertrax ($218.00) $404.95 from catalog. It is for an open carrier, I thought that was what I had until I dove in further. Should I keep it and get a used open carrier,or get rid of it?

I'm not a Jeepaholic, I can stop jeepin any time I want.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2001, 11:39 AM
jsmith
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

Back to the top

I'm not a Jeepaholic, I can stop jeepin any time I want.
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2001, 11:52 AM
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

well the open carrier could only use the 2.73 gears. You could sell the unit you have and then reuse the tracklock carrier for the no-slip....that way you can use higher gears and not have to get a new carrier.

thats what i plan on doing as soon as i can rationalize the 400ish spent on a no-slip



Jeep'n Greg

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  #8  
Old 02-01-2001, 12:44 PM
jsmith
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

OK, lets say that I rebuilt the Trak-Lok, it looks like I may have to do seals anyway, how well do they work? Would it be worth rebuiling or should I just forget it?

I'm not a Jeepaholic, I can stop jeepin any time I want.
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  #9  
Old 02-02-2001, 12:17 PM
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Default Re: Trak-Lok??

$80 for the clutches. If your already pulling the shafts then 4 bolts and it's out. New clutches are hard to put in but can be done. First mistake other people (me) make is forgeting to drive out the little pin that holds the cross shaft in. Other people (me) look really stupid trying to figure out why you can't beat the crossshaft out. You will have to put the clutches in and and side gears together and turn the assembly in the housing to get the crossshaft to line back up. It will be very tight and is frustrating but can be done without special tools on the bench. Think C-clamps, vises and a few bandages and you'll be Okay.
I don't know about how long it will all last but is a cheap way to get effective grip (dual mud throwing ability) off-road.

Pigpen
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