Off Roading Forums banner

Returning after 10 years with a 85 CJ7... tire / wheel quesitons

11K views 20 replies 6 participants last post by  SilentBob2 
#1 ·
So I used to be a very regular poster here and used to do quite a bit off roading back when I lived in So Cal. 3 kids and a move to Texas and I have been out of the Jeep game until now. I just picked up a California 86 CJ-7 with the old 258 and Carter Carb. Its got all the emissions junk on there and has some issues. It's got once spot of rust on it and I new the old owner well.

For some background I have owned and made significant modifications to a 74 CJ-5, 80 Toyota Pickup, and 2000 TJ... but it seems some things have changed in 10 years and man I kind of felt ignorant tonight for the first time in a while.

Is it me or are the floating tire sizes for a 15 inch wheel going away? Tire rack only offered 4 crappy tires (crappy as in, no way near enough lugs for me!). Currently has 3 inch leaf spring lift and 32x11.50x15's on her. It has been sitting in a garage for 8 years. The tires are garbage... so my question. (yes I can be long winded)...

What are the most popular rim size / tire size that would be an appropriate swap? It seems the floating tire sizes in 15 inch rims anyway are going away or less common? Is everyone running 16 or 17inch rims now? I want to try to find a fairly popular size that is right for the jeep, so they won't be stupid expensive.

Things to consider... I am thinking of putting on the 4 inch Rubicon express leaf springs... or having some custom packed... so I might want to go a bit larger.

Lots more posts to come as I dig through and try to decide things like, fix the 258 and dumb down the emissions (nutter bypass maybe) or drop in a 304 (me likey but the axles won't... it has an AMC 20 :sad )

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Attachments

See less See more
2
#2 ·
Tire Rack might not carry much selection but there are still several brands making 31, 33 and 35 inch mud tires for 15 inch rims.
For suspension, consider using stock rear springs from JC Whitney and going spring over axle. The second leaf is military wrapped and you won't have u-bolts, u-bolt plates and lower shock mounts hanging below the axle anymore.
Before going crazy high, also consider a rear locking differential. That will make a huge difference too.
For the engine, if you keep the 258, check the timing chain, a motorcraft 2100 or 2150 is a good carb swap, large ford cap and rotor with cherokee plug wires and possibly an HEI conversion on the ignition. You can use an HEI module with the stock distributor, just check the amount of mechanical timing available in it.
The AMC 20 rear axle will hold up just fine with a 1 piece axle upgrade. If you want a little more width, wagoneer dana 44s are a good swap.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Check out the Maxxis trepadors. You can get those in a 33 & 35x12.50-15. They don't have the round floating look but I'm pretty sure they are the most aggressive tire out right now. And I believe you can get it in a radial or bias. The bias is more aggressive... You can definitely get better prices and options if you went to a 16" rim. Just a note for everyone, avoid anything with an 18" wheel. Tire choices are limited and prices are higher. 19" are worse if you are looking at aftermarket wheels.
 
#13 ·
Thanks! When I built the front D44 I put 6 degrees of caster in it, against my better judgement on the advice of some guys on the board. Everything in the steering is as tight as it can be, but I still get death wobble, which I think is due to excessive caster and tire wear. I'd like to put new shoes on it, but would really llke to take the axle apart and correct the caster first. I don't know when I'll have the time to do that.
 
#15 ·
Thanks, Will. I've thought of those, and also thought about making some tapered shims. I may do the latter to see if they cure the DW. The spec is 3 degrees, which I where I think it should be. Unfortunately the adjustable ball joints will only get half way. But they would be good for correcting the 1/4 degree variance side to side I accidentally wound up with.
 
#16 ·
Looks like Rubicon Express makes degree shims in 2º increments for $32 a pair. Use steel shims or to make shims. Don't use or buy aluminum or cast.
 
#18 ·
32's are kind of a dead size. I personally like 33x10.5's but your only options are really BFG's, Generals, the new Maxxis mud tires, or Toyo Mt's. I'd love another set of toyo mt's, after changing 100's of generals at desert races I'd never buy them, I've never been that happy with BFG's but I also deal with snow on a daily basis and the Muds just don't have enough siping, I'm interested to see how the Maxxis do.

All the cool kids running JK's are running 17's or 20's if they are more worried about mall crawling ability. The one thing you have to watch out for is a lot of the 17" tires are load range E, AKA heavy and stiff. Goodyear duratracs are very popular around here. I just ordered a set of 31" hankook ATM for my TJ, they aren't the most aggressive tire but they wear well and are awesome in the snow, probably not much of a consideration to you in California but driving 100 miles a day round trip into the mountains of Colorado they should work good for me.
 
#19 ·
Watch out on those hankook ATM's. They tend to have a week spot right at the crown between the side wall and the tread. Very prone to puncture. Other than that great tire and make sure you get a road hazard on them. I won't offer that tire anymore. I only order them for the people that requests them.
 
#20 ·
Hmm I've never heard of that happening and I know a bunch of people who swear by them. The ones on my 3/4 ton chevy have seen a ton of rocky trails at goat heads and cactus at the desert race track. I always buy the certificates at discount and usually come out ahead. I know you own a local shop but after servicing their air compressors and lifts I have a lot of good to say about discount. They are a class act and I've never been called sir so many times in my life. The nation wide warranty doesn't hurt either.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The most common problem I see from the ATM's are from farmers driving through there fields and hitting stobs after they have cut hay or brush hogged not so much the rocks. I did have one of my vendors tell me it depends on where they were made. Guess they are made in two different countries. My wife ran them on a rural mail route for a few years and would get about nine months out of them but could probably run longer but doesn't like flats at that point. Now she runs cooper st max and goes about thirteen months. That is the tire of all tires when it comes to the dirt roads of the Ozarks.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top