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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ

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  #1  
Old 10-18-2009, 11:07 AM
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Default Drain plug stripped - replace oil pan?

Folks,

Stripper drain plug here on my '81 258 CJ7. Should I drop/replace the oil pan? How big a job is this? Should I cheat and put one of those larger self tapping drain plugs in?

Thanks,

-John
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:59 PM
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There's really nothing wrong with the self-tapping oversize plugs. I had one in my '55 Chevy for a couple of years. Just be careful when you start it in. You really have nothing to lose by trying one before replacing the pan.
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Old 10-18-2009, 03:51 PM
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I agree with Jim.....

Go to NAPA with your old bolt....they will give you a new one that is just slightly larger but self tapping....

And as Jim said....be real careful how you thread it in....it's easy to get it cross threaded...if you get it straight so that cuts into what is left of your old threads....you will end up with a bolt that should last years....

Make sure you put a good nylon or copper washer on there....it will allow you to not have to get the bolt as tight to keep it from leaking.
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:24 PM
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You can also peen the threads in the pan and perhaps recover the use of the OEM plug.
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homepagez View Post
Folks,

Stripper drain plug here on my '81 258 CJ7. Should I drop/replace the oil pan? How big a job is this? Should I cheat and put one of those larger self tapping drain plugs in?

Thanks,

-John
Every oil change place in the country will have OVER SIZE DRAIN PLUGS THAT CUT THEIR OWN THREADS.
Usually several sizes so you can pick and choose which one gets the job done.

Most of the 'Help Sections' in the discount stores will have oversize plugs,

Or you can get an over sized drill and tap in fine threads,
And open the hole up to the next size if you don't drill too large a hole.
Metric threads often work as 'Half Sizes' in situations like this if you can find a metric drain plug that is slightly larger...

Don't forget to use grease on the tap while cutting threads so it drags the chips back out with the tap.

You can get one of those oil change valves with the same thread as is in your pan, then JB weld it in place.
Ran race cars for years with this done, and never had one leak...
There are other epoxies out there, but I haven't tried them.
A little heat on the valve/pan will make the JB weld suck up into the threads (Capillary movement for you science geeks).

You can SOLDER a brass valve in place also, just make sure the threads are clean and fluxed while you are soldering!
Silver bearing electrical solder has worked for me in the past, and all that takes is a propane torch and cleaner/flux before hand.

Silver solder works REALLY WELL if you have the talent, or know someone that has the talent for silver soldering...
(But the excess heat can't be good for the rest of the pan!)

If you know someone REALLY GOOD with a TIG welder,
You can weld a NICKEL over the hole,
Drill & Tap the Nickel for your standard size drain plug.
Don't forget to grid/polish the 'Down' side for the drain plug gasket!

I've patched many a cracked oil pan/stripped plug hole with Pre '68 Nickels that are actually made of 'Nickel'... Works good in a pinch...

This might get you through until the next engine rebuild, oil pump change or rear main seal change where you will have the pan off anyway...
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Last edited by TeamRush; 10-18-2009 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:52 PM
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you can also have someone tig a nut over the hole and simply run a bolt into it with a nylon washer on it. That shouldnt cost more than 20.00 I did this on my diff covers for easy drains.
Good luck
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:03 PM
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In all my years, I still can't figure out how you can cross thread or strip the threads on an oil pan drain plug!!?? I've only left it off once!!... and had to clean up about 2 quarts of oil before I realized what I did!!
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Old 10-22-2009, 06:36 PM
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Well, I guess you're just not as skilled as some of the rest of us.

On some pans I can kind of see it; you're on your back scooting around on the gravel, the hole is out of sight, on the side of the pan, at an odd angle, in a place you can only reach with your fingertips and an air ratchet, the threads are worn from about 500 changes and have been put in too tight 450 of those changes . . .

But on a Jeep where it's right there in front of you, ah dunno.
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:28 AM
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Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty. Of course that's only if you are looking at it face on. Upside down and over your head it will actually be the opposite.

Put the car up on ramps. Change oil/filter. Slide pan off to side to tighten everything. Back car down off ramps to make clean up easier. Back over oil pan and smash nice pan and put 5 quarts of oil all over concrete driveway. Two different times.

P.S. Have also done the "forgot to put the plug in before I started pouring new oil in" trick....just once though. That time I only bought 5 quarts. I had to wait for my wife to come hame and then take her car to buy the two that came out as quickly as I poured them in..........I now have extra quarts on shelf.
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Old 11-11-2009, 11:58 PM
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Put wifes old car on ramp, drained oil, changed filter, put plug in it and backed it down and left it runing in the street, to check for oil leaks and clean the small mess...after idling for 5 min realized I forgot to put oil back in it put oil in and ran the car for 2 more years before traiding it in...
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