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Old 08-11-2009, 12:33 PM
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Default Rust Killer That Actually Seems To Work...

I've been beating myself up trying to get rid of rust, and I mean BAD rust on things for quite a while...

I have a Small (Bucket Siphon) type sand blaster,
But the silica sand is expensive and if you store it, it draws moisture making it a PAIN to work with.

There are also issue with lung and eye problems with any shot/sand blasting.

I've tried 'Rust Killers' of all descriptions, but this one seems to work without killing myself!

It's 'Permatex' brand, p/n 81775 (RT-8A)
And I got it at the local Sherwin Willams paint store.
Cost is about $9 a pint, but a pint goes a LONG way!

This is my 'Test Pig', a wheel that matches the heavy duty wheels I have on my Jeep.
I wanted a spare, but I didn't know if this one was salvageable until I tried this stuff!

I used an air powered wire brush to remove the scale and the worst of the standing rust, and the paint that wasn't adhered to anything anymore...

(you could do this by hand, but it would be slow!)





Then a coat of the 'Rust Killer'...
Now, this stuff says to use a small container for what you are going to use, you SHOULD NOT dip the brush into the bottle.


They are CORRECT!
If you dip, you will activate the bottle and ruin it!

(ask me how I know that! )




The foam created when I shook the bottle seemed to be a pain in the butt, but it turned out to be MUCH EASER to get the foam forced into small places/crevices in the wheel than the brush could go!

First coat went on REALLY fast and easy!




And I let it dry about 20-30 minutes...




Then applied a second coat, which took a lot less than the first coat, and went on even easier than the first coat!



Once that coat dried, it was REALLY IMPRESSIVE how the rust had been converted to something I can only describe as a 'Coating'...



I used about 1/4 of a bottle on BOTH sides of this wheel, and the coating is HARD AS A ROCK,

Plus, when I wire brushed off the 'Streaks' of bubbles that got away
(really easy to remove if it wasn't in contact with rust)
I found that the rust in the pours and pits in the metal were no longer showing 'Rust' anymore, it was all converted to the hard, black surface you see in the pictures!

I use SELF ETCHING PRIMER before I paint, and I've not had any issues with rust reappearing under this stuff, and all paint stayed where I put it!

THIS IS NOT 'NAVAL JELLY' or any of the other caustic, stinking crap I've tried.
No bad smell, no eating your skin away, actually very present to work with.


Just thought I'd share....
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Last edited by TeamRush; 08-11-2009 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 08-11-2009, 01:09 PM
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Rustoleum has a product called Rust Converter or something like that. Produces a similar finish that seems tough as dirt. Bad thing about it is that it's expensive and dries up in the bottle.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:55 PM
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Man Rush, you need remember the rest of us have cheap-ass monitors - without 3000-pixel resolution. Your images always blow my margins out.

(How extreme close up of painting a wheel do I need anyway?)

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Old 08-11-2009, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by writeforus View Post
Man Rush, you need remember the rest of us have cheap-ass monitors - without 3000-pixel resolution. Your images always blow my margins out.

(How extreme close up of painting a wheel do I need anyway?)

Iíve been hoping somebody would fix this for years. On another board I go on, it automatically resizes the image. On another, only the post with the image is wide. The posts before and after the wide one are default width. At least one of those boards is using the same brand bbs software.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRush View Post
I've been beating myself up trying to get rid of rust, and I mean BAD rust on things for quite a while...
...

I've tried 'Rust Killers' of all descriptions, but this one seems to work without killing myself!

[B]It's 'Permatex' brand, p/n 81775 (RT-8A)
And I got it at the local Sherwin Willams paint store.
Cost is about $9 a pint, but a pint goes a LONG way!
Shouldía asked. Iíve been using it for years. Before that I used something called Extend that was in a brown bottle. Iím sure itís the same stuff. When I opened it and it smelled like the Elpo/E-coat dip tanks at the auto plants, I was pretty sure it was going to do the job. And it wasnít that expensive at the auto parts store but Iíve had that bottle for a lot of years.

Jim, if yours is drying up, you are probably contaminating it. You need to pour some out of the bottle into a small dish (I use plastic jar lids). NEVER dip your brush in the bottle or pour the left over back in the bottle.

Hereís my bottle.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rust tr.jpg (59.3 KB, 0 views)
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
NEVER dip your brush in the bottle or pour the left over back in the bottle.
It's been a long time since I used it, so I don't remember for sure, but that's probably where I went wrong. Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by writeforus View Post
Man Rush, you need remember the rest of us have cheap-ass monitors - without 3000-pixel resolution. Your images always blow my margins out.

(How extreme close up of painting a wheel do I need anyway?)

Takes 15 seconds to set your browser up to resize any image...
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Lou View Post
It's been a long time since I used it, so I don't remember for sure, but that's probably where I went wrong. Thanks!
Printing in between second and third pics...

I dipped the bush into my first bottle, turned into thick pudding that was mostly black overnight.

Been pouring the stuff out into spray can tops for small cups, or as you can see in the pics,
Into the depression in the rim in this application.

These are bottles left over from last year and they are fine, even the partial bottle left over winter went on just fine.

These are pictures from last year, I just had them laying around, and while spending time on hold (phone) I stumbled onto them and decided to do a quick article for the Jeep & gun forums...

Still on hold when I was done, and done posting, but that's what you get for calling a government agency at lunch time!
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:08 PM
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I might also caution about getting it on your skin. It will turn your skin purple.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:54 PM
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NAPA used to market a product like that called "restore" and I liked it. I got some recently and it was not the same, did not work near as well. One warning though clean it off good if you plan to weld. I had some old steel around that I had coated as an experiment. After 5 years or so it had not rusted, but looked black. I assumed it was just mill scale and tried to weld to it. The weld turned out okay but the fumes that came off were bad acidic like, it took me awhile to figure out the cause.

A friend recently turned me on to a product called "Ospho" it is much thinner about like water. It paints on and goes a long way, but I do not think it would do as well if not painted over relatively soon after use. It does the same thing turns the rust black and kills it. My understanding is that the active ingredient in all these products and Naval Jelly is Phosphoric Acid, which turns the rust into Iron Phosphate.

I wonder how the price would compare to straight Phosphoric acid from a chemistry supplier.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:09 AM
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And would straight phosphoric acid work as well?
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