Quote:
Originally Posted by Raduckal  A two piece distributor cap seemed antiproductive to me for wet area performance.
But it worked... Thanks TR |
You can further enhance your 'Wet Performance' by filling the groove under the cap with dielectric grease before you put the cap on the last time.
The grease won't keep you from pulling the cap off, but seals out any water coming in that way,
And any air leaking out that way letting moisture in from below.
I usually use 'Gorilla Snot' (Weather Strip Adhesive) to glue the adapter down everywhere but where the vacuum advance 'Swept' area is, and I use dielectric grease there also.
Since the adapter only has to come off if you chance the vacuum advance or trigger stator, you can glue away and it will be fine...
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Working on killing cross fires or ground firing...
One way to keep those particular nasties to a minimum is to VENT the distributor cap.
An electrical discharge can't jump a gap in the cap if it can't IONIZE the gap...
Ionized air builds up pretty quickly in the small Factory style caps, and then the spark energy is free to set off in any direction it wants to....
And often times that's NOT to the spark plug!
The larger distributor caps take longer to ionize the air inside, but it WILL build up.
The Ford style rotor is built to stir up the ionized air, and that helps a little,
But the best way to stop the ionization of the air is to VENT the ionized air from the cap.
The better V-8 Caps have vents built into them to keep the ionization from building up...
But the I-6 caps normally do not have a vent.
The vent is the black button above the coil terminal in the middle...
Now, there are THREE problems with this vent...
1. It's not in all Caps.
2. It's a source of moisture in wet terrains.
3. There is no filter or way to hook clean air up to that vent.
Here are some solutions to those 'Issues'...
Those are MIG welder tips, and I use them in the caps for Vacuum/Pressure nipples when I'm venting the racing distributors,
Or in the case of my Jeep, When I'm attaching air pressure to the distributor to keep the water out...
In the case of I-6 distributor caps,
I simply drill a hole between terminals and screw in the MIG welder tip.
If needed, a few drops of epoxy on both sides of the hole work wonders for sealing.
Looks something like this when done...
This one pretty plainly shows the groove in the edges of these caps where they connect to the adapter base...
NOW!
If you are using LOW PRESSURE or VACUUM to keep the distributor dry or free of ionized air,
Then you need to drill the MIG welder tip out larger.
I use the smaller hole when I run high pressure to my distributor from my OBA tank.
The restriction keeps the pressure inside the cap reasonable (around 5 PSI) when my air tank is between 90 & 120 PSI, so it's about perfectly sized.
If you use low pressure, like a bait bucket pump,
A low cost solution to pressure in the cap,
Then you should drill the MIG tip out a little.
If you use engine vacuum to keep the ionization out of the cap, don't forget to give the bottom of the distributor a clean air source.
Some sort of filter, even air cleaner hose to bottom of distributor will do.
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Anyway, now that I have an air pressure regulator on my OBA system, I just dial the air pressure down to about 5-7 PSI, and I've drilled the MIG tip out but still using it...
This has been updated somewhat, since my axles and transmission/transfer case are pressurized now also when the valve shown is turned on...
Keeps the water out of my drive train and axles at the same time...
Once I got my module and coil sealed up (mud will short out both the module and coil if the terminals are exposed),
The engine happily runs with the distributor blowing bubbles under water now!
TeamRush 
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