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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ

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  #31  
Old 07-01-2009, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneD View Post
The switch has been replaced. No go. Have checked connectors, even took the ones to the the rear brake lights apart and cleaned them. What else is there to consider?

Question, If the four wheel drive indicator circuit is a direct short to gorund/common (when hooked up it blew the 20 amp fuse it was connected to), would this cause the backup lights not to light when the T176 is put into reverse?
Sorry DuaneD, missed your post with all the crap that is going on with taz and rich...

And it's obvious that neither one of them has an answer or they would have beat a drum and set off firecrackers!
--------------------------------------
--------------------------------------

OK!
Down to business!
Time for the BIG BRAINS to get cracking!


Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneD View Post
The switch has been replaced. No go. Have checked connectors, even took the ones to the the rear brake lights apart and cleaned them. What else is there to consider?
YES!
The backup light switch firewall connection and the 4 wheel drive switch wires are right next to each other in the fire wall connector,
And they run under the vehicle together in the same harness!

Can't say that is what's happening, but it seems 'Fishy' to me both are not working correctly...
...............

That fuse for the 'IGN LPS' (Ignition Switch Connected Panel Lamps) should have been a 15 Amp fuse, so someone has had problems with it before.

That same circuit to the '4 Wheel Drive' indicator feeds the FUEL, TEMP and OIL PRESSURE gauges.

With the instrumentation fuse blown, you shouldn't have gauges while the fuse is popped...
OR,
If you do, someone has rewired the circuit,
OR,
It's drawing power from another circuit like Back Up Lights...



Since the Back Up Light wire and the '4 Wheel Drive' indicator wire are so close together in the bulkhead connector,
And since they run together under the vehicle...
And since neither is working correctly...

I think I might have a look at that 'Potential Issue'...



---------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneD View Post
Question, If the four wheel drive indicator circuit is a direct short to gorund/common (when hooked up it blew the 20 amp fuse it was connected to), would this cause the backup lights not to light when the T176 is put into reverse?
NO, not powered by the same fuse in the panel.
Reverse lights are powered by the Seat Belt Fuse,
The '4 Wheel Drive' light is power by ignition switch, then fuse, for 'Idiot' lights/gauges.

But anything is possible on a 24 year old vehicle...
Wiring harness get pinched, connectors get corroded together, PO's monkey with wiring when they have NO IDEA what they are doing,
wires rub on sharp edges and get grounded/connected where they shouldn't be....

It's a CJ! Nothing is going to work unless you FORCE it to work correctly!


Now, for the Back-Up Lights...

The power for your Back Up Lights comes though the SEAT BELT FUSE (Marked 'Bu Seat Belt' and it's supposed to be 25 amps)

From there out through the Fire Wall Connector,
Red 16 Ga. (no trace indicated) all the way to the TWO TERMINAL BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH,



Then out from the Switch as a WHITE 16 Ga. w/Trace to the LEFT lamp housing, the continues as a WHITE 18 Ga. to the RIGHT lamp housing.

AND,
There are THREE connectors between switch and tail light connector...

If you have power IN at the 'Red' 16 Ga. wire to the switch,
Then your problem is probably one of those connectors between switch and tail lights (assuming the tail light connector or ground isn't the 'Problem'...)

If you DO NOT have power 'IN' to the switch,
Then you should start looking backwards to the fire wall connection, or to the harness connection that takes wires under for the transmission/transfer case.

(Checking that seat belt fuse would be my first stop if I didn't have power to the switch!)
---------------------------------------------

Now, if you want to have a look at the factory wiring diagram, click on the link below,
and WAIT!
It's a 20+Mb file, but it's a factory service manual for your jeep, DO NOT forget to save it once you download it!
http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FSM/CJ-FSM-84to86.pdf

This is about 20 Mb also, but it's only the ELECTRICAL SECTION, and it's scanned in high definition so you can zoom in on the diagrams...
http://www.civilianjeep.info/84-86FS...Schematics.pdf

Once you get it all, scroll down to about page 74 and have a look at the LEFT hand side of the page...
Don't forget to save it, I have a feeling you are going to need it!
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Last edited by TeamRush; 07-01-2009 at 03:15 PM.
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  #32  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:34 PM
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Wow! I am over whelmed with the amount and quality of information. I have learned that orange wires don't connect to other orange wires. Being reminded to double check wiring and the use of a test light, got us started. By connecting the wrong orange wire, we created a BiG short to ground. What gave it away was by closing the four wheel drive switch, the incorect fuse would blow the circuit. Looking at your bulk head connector diagram, and related schemtics we realized we were on the wrong orange wire. By connecting to the right orange wire, everything worked! Thanks again for everyones time and graphic picture work. Case closed. Everyone be cool.
Grace and Peace,
Duane
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  #33  
Old 07-03-2009, 11:23 AM
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I was pretty sure that is what you would find.

Was this the original problem?
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  #34  
Old 07-03-2009, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7Taz View Post
I was pretty sure that is what you would find.

Was this the original problem?
No, the orignal OEM switch was dead.
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  #35  
Old 07-03-2009, 01:36 PM
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I just wasn’t following how or when the wires got swapped. I’m guessing you don’t have the connectors on the ends and I didn’t know how the wire to the 4WD switch got unplugged.

I was just curious. No need to explain.
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  #36  
Old 07-04-2009, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuaneD View Post
Wow! I am over whelmed with the amount and quality of information. I have learned that orange wires don't connect to other orange wires. Being reminded to double check wiring and the use of a test light, got us started. By connecting the wrong orange wire, we created a BiG short to ground. What gave it away was by closing the four wheel drive switch, the incorect fuse would blow the circuit. Looking at your bulk head connector diagram, and related schemtics we realized we were on the wrong orange wire. By connecting to the right orange wire, everything worked! Thanks again for everyones time and graphic picture work. Case closed. Everyone be cool.
Grace and Peace,
Duane
Glad I could help.

Sorry about the confusion, I didn't know this would turn into a giant crap throwing fight when I posted that automotive switches (or any switches) would have a measurable amount of resistance when 'CLOSED',
And have a measurable amount of current passing through them when they are 'OPEN'...

Anyway, glad to hear you are up and running again!
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