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Jeep-Short Wheelbase All discussion of short wheelbase Jeeps: CJ, TJ, YJ

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  #21  
Old 09-07-2008, 09:08 PM
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My E-brake has always sucked and I will want something very good for winching. So I figured why not get one of the Jamar Line locks and check it out. I found one for $25 plus $4.50 shipping on Ebay. I will let you know how well it works of doesn't work.
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  #22  
Old 09-08-2008, 01:05 PM
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Don't think that a line lock will do much for you when winching. The Jeep just isn't heavy enough to generate much pull, even with all four wheels locked. You'll still need to use hefty chocks or chain the Jeep to an anchor to generate much pull.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2008, 02:06 PM
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if you want cheap.. then use some ball valves from the water department in lowes... a friend has been using them for years with no problems and i have just started using them...
step on the brake.. close the valve.. and it holds.. unless you have a leak somewhere in your lines.. then it will hold..

these are not street legal as an emergency brake... by law that must be mechanical... in case you have hydraulic brake failure, you have the mechanical as a back up.
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2008, 02:12 PM
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BTW: if you anchor your jeep down while winching, anchor at the winch not the other end of the jeep. You can stretch your frame.
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2008, 05:29 PM
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If you stretch your frame while winching there's something wrong with it and you might as well find out now. I stretched my '78 frame winching, but I had a double sheave hooked to the snow plow frame so there was . . . 5? times the winch force going through the frame. I've learned to hook the sheaves to my anchor point and don't have that problem. I've snapped the cable many times on a single-line pull with no ill effects.

But then they don't build Jeeps like that any more. I don't know about these new fangled coil spring critters. Might pull one of them in two.
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2008, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Lou View Post
If you stretch your frame while winching there's something wrong with it and you might as well find out now. I stretched my '78 frame winching, but I had a double sheave hooked to the snow plow frame so there was . . . 5? times the winch force going through the frame. I've learned to hook the sheaves to my anchor point and don't have that problem. I've snapped the cable many times on a single-line pull with no ill effects.

But then they don't build Jeeps like that any more. I don't know about these new fangled coil spring critters. Might pull one of them in two.


Good post Jim.

I'm still thinking about the line locks. Need to make a couple of phone calls to manufacturers. Will get around to that sooner or later.


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  #27  
Old 09-09-2008, 06:25 PM
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Hey Jim, I refer to your sage experience, that is what I was always told to anchor at the winch never at the rear.
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  #28  
Old 09-09-2008, 08:17 PM
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In theory it's probaby a good idea, but neither necessary nor practical.
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  #29  
Old 09-09-2008, 08:46 PM
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That's where a little intelligence comes in, not much needed, just a little.

If you are having to use more power than the vehicle weighs, it stands to reason there'll be damage. Free the wheels, raise the axles, dig out the body etc - get it free first, then pull it.

If you were going to lift it straight up - you wouldn't do it by the mirror would you?

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  #30  
Old 09-09-2008, 10:46 PM
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Not sure if UROC exists today but back a couple years ago I spent some time at many of the UROC competitions. Often trail Jeeps sitting high over the courses would pick up broken down competition rigs and set them down safely out of the way.

They were always anchored (up to the operator how it was anchored). Most of those Jeeps had Warn 8274 winches (no not 12,000 lb winches). And most of them were old CJ's. Actually it was a Jeep Club out of Kentucky that impressed me the most as they worked the Jellico TN competitions.

BTW... They all had synthetic winch rope.

I'm with RRich this time... Just Think.


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