So I put in a new to me brake set up into my CJ...dual diaphragm booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve from a 95 XJ.
I go to bleed the master cylinder by having someone hold down the pedal for me while I open on line from it...get some bubbling...spitting...but not a good flow. Try that for a while and get rid of the bubbling and spitting and get just a bit of dribble. Doesn't seem right...but move onto the other line from the MC...get nothing...no juice when pedal is pushed down...that doesn't seem right...
Move to each wheel...get a good stream from the rear wheels...get a dribble from the front.
During installation I shortened the push rod to get it to fit into my CJ. I cut the rod...welded a threaded insert onto the side of the rod with the booster...cut threads on the eyelet side and screwed that on (with a jam nut) so that my brake pedal was as high as it could get.
Would you be more likely to bet that my MC is clogged or that the stroke length of the push rod is not right?
Did you do anything to block the spool in the multi-function valve? If it sees a leak, it will shift the spool to block it, even if that leak is a bleeder valve open. As Rich asks, “How does it know?”
__________________ There are 10 kinds of people in the world.
Those who understand binary and those who don't.
Not an arguement here...why is it necessary to bleed the MC outside the vehicle first rather than in the vehicle?
Another thought...if trying to eliminate air...why pump it back into the fluid in the resivior? Will all of the air just bubble out? Wouldn't some of the air be dissolved into the brake fluid?
You need to keep air out of the system. If you don't bench bleed the MC, the air's pretty darn far up the system to bleed out from the lines. You'll bleed and get a good stream at the wheel and stop... thinking all's good, when it is not. So, do it right. Like anything, you've got to start with a good foundation, and bench bleeding the MC is that foundation.
The description you linked is a good one.
Once the bench bleeding has been done and you start to bleed the lines, bleed them in this order:
Rear Passenger's wheel
Rear Driver's side
Front Passenger's side
Front Driver's side.
Make sure you keep filling the MC as you bleed the system. You don't need it sucking air into the lines as you're pumping it out.
You can do the same procedure in the vehicle - it's just easier to do it before installing it. Much easier.
You are recycling the fluid - the air bubbles up to the surface.
The tubes that recycle it just prevents a big mess if you let it go on the floor, and prevents air getting sucked back in.
If a mess doesn't bother you - hold your fingers tight over the open holes and have someone slowly pump the pedal. The pressure will push your fingers away as the air and fluid come out if you keep them tight. Just don't let air back in. Your fingers act like a check valve. Do it more than you think is enough.
BTW - flood it with plain old water from a hose to wash brake fluid off. Just don't let any get in the system.
Once the bench bleeding has been done and you start to bleed the lines, bleed them in this order:
* Rear Passenger's wheel
* Rear Driver's side
* Front Passenger's side
* Front Driver's side.
On many Jeeps the driver-side rear is the most distant because the the line goes to a T on the passenger side of the axle, and from there the line to the driver's side goes three quarters the width of the axle, while the passenger side goes only one quarter.
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master cylinder 
Linear Mode
