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post #1 of (permalink) Old 07-03-2008, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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TJ U-Joint Replacement Question

My brother has an '05 TJ with a bad u-joint. He is a rural mail carrier and uses his Jeep daily and can't have it out of commission. So, before we tear into it, is there any tricks, tips or unusual methods we need to know about first? My '77 is the latest model anything I have ever put a u-joint in. I had heard a guy talking about changing one out on a Cherokee where he had to apply a torch to melt some plastic thingy out before it would come apart. Anyway, any help/advice/tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

29,000 mile 'Barn Find" 1977 CJ5, P/S. P/B, 4.2L, T18, Dana 30 front, AMC 20 rear. I added: 2 1/2" Superlift lift, 31X11.50 SuperSwamper TSL's, Lock Right Front and Rear, Mile Marker E9000 and one piece rear axles
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2008, 11:14 AM
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I don't have any inormation on a TJ that new... just be prepared to beat the livin' daylights out of the joint... or have a press available to easily remove it. Getting to the U-joint is usally the easies part of the procedure... removing it is usally a PITA.

Good Luck, and happy 4th of July!
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 07-04-2008, 04:02 PM
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Borrow a front wheel drive hub puller from a parts store too. It will make it easier to remove the hub from the knuckle.

"As the circle of my knowledge grows, so grows the circumference of the unknown." - Isaak Newton
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 07-05-2008, 03:19 AM
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Which U-joint? If in the propeller shafts and not a CV joint then it is exactly the same as your 77. If in the front axle the joint is the same but how to get to it is different.

For what it is worth the common U-joint was invented in 1903 or 1906 (can't remember) by Hook and has not changed much since then. Infact Hook knowingly or unknowingly more or less copied a design for telescope mounts from the 1600's if I remember correctly.

So, if you know how to do U-joints on one rig then you can do it on an other.

Wilhelm

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 03:27 PM
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I don't think that one has them, but some modern day joints use an injected plastic filler to hold the cap in instead of clips. Replacements come with the clips you are used to.

The plastic type - heat the cap and yoke with a propane torch - the plastic will melt and expand out the holes in the yokes. It'll come out like a worm. CAUTION - don't let it dribble in your shoe - that hurts! Don't ask!
After the worm is out, simply press the cap out like you always did.
Clean up the yoke and use the clips for the new yoke.

If it is the axles joints, remove wheel, caliper, big hub nut, then find the 3 bolts that hold the hub on. Use a 12 point socket on those - no special tools required.
Remove the hub, yank out the entire axle. The joints replace just like a driveshaft joint - except no plastic filler.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 07-08-2008, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you much

29,000 mile 'Barn Find" 1977 CJ5, P/S. P/B, 4.2L, T18, Dana 30 front, AMC 20 rear. I added: 2 1/2" Superlift lift, 31X11.50 SuperSwamper TSL's, Lock Right Front and Rear, Mile Marker E9000 and one piece rear axles
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 07-09-2008, 12:08 PM
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It's been a while since I've done a front axle ujoint, but IIRC (someone correct me if I'm wrong) you don't need to remove the axle from the wheel bearing to replace the ujoint. Unless you are using a vice or something to press the joint in, and need the room, you can leave the wheel bearing on the outer stub shaft.

So, stealing text from the steps above and modifying....

If it is the axles joints, remove wheel, caliper, disc, then find the 3 bolts that hold the hub on. Use a 12 point socket on those - no special tools required.
Remove the hub and axle together. The joints replace just like a driveshaft joint - except no plastic.

Good luck
Pete

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04WJ: Less old, less noisy, less slow, daily driver Jeep.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 07-09-2008, 01:19 PM
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I guess you could, but all the TJ's I've done the bearing wasn't stuck to the axle. The bearing is pressed into the hub, but the stub axle just "pokes" through.
Once the 3 bolts are removed, the hub just about falls off.

But - rust may make it a different story.
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 07-09-2008, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRich View Post
Once the 3 bolts are removed, the hub just about falls off.

But - rust may make it a different story.
Yeah, I wish mine fell out. I still haven't installed my front locker because of them not coming out.

"As the circle of my knowledge grows, so grows the circumference of the unknown." - Isaak Newton
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