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  #21  
Old 06-21-2008, 03:32 PM
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Ohhh I see now, I thought the axle was installed on your Jeep but you're speaking of a replacement axle. That's why I asked what made you think it was bent; I was thinking you hit something.

Maybe a quick way to satisfy yourself that it is straight would be to measure from the edge of differential carrier on a diagonal out to each end of the tubes, like you would if you were going to truss the axle like RRich suggested. That would at least give you an idea of straightness in the vertical plane.
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2008, 06:45 PM
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Yeah, it would. If there were an accurate center point on top of the housing.
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Old 06-21-2008, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepgod View Post
i usually lay that puppy down on the ground.. stand back a good 20 feet or so.. and give a good hard look.. then drink a few beers.. and give her another good long look.. then walk out to the axle and look at it one last time.. if it looks straight.. well.. it's straight enough.. slap that puppy in.. and drive it.. watch your tires.. they will tell ya.. and also if you give it a 4 wheel alignment.. and its still out of wak when driving behind it.. that will let ya know also.. but i'm a cheap ass.. and just keep a keen eye on the rubber.. by the time you see any goofy wearing.. it will be time to rotate the tires.. and you won't be out much..
Whatever the above lacks in a technical aspect is well made up in good common sense.

Just build the axle.


Dale
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Old 06-21-2008, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Lou View Post
Yeah, it would. If there were an accurate center point on top of the housing.
Actually, Jim, I was thinking about using some point on the bottom of the differential housing. Like maybe a pencil mark transfered on to the bottom center of the gasket surface. Then measure out to each top of the tubes from there. Another method could be to measure from the bottom left hand side cover bolt hole to the top end of the left tube and then from the right bottom hole to the top of the right tube. I'm assuming that the cover bolt holes are at equal distances around the cover so if those two measurements are the same then the axle assembly would be straight, at least to the accuracy of your tape measure (about 1/32").
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Last edited by xjy173; 06-21-2008 at 10:23 PM. Reason: spelling and punctuation
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:06 AM
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Dale probably has the right idea - just build the sucker. I've been thinking in thousandths - way beyond tape measure resolution.
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_Lou View Post
Dale probably has the right idea - just build the sucker. I've been thinking in thousandths - way beyond tape measure resolution.
I'm sure it will turn out fine; hope you get many good years of use out of it.

Good Luck, Jim
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:56 PM
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If it looks straight with just your eye, it should be close enough. A more important thing to check is the shaft itself. One of my shafts had a bent flange so the tire wobbled and went up and down. Moser can fix that too or make you new stronger ones for about $170 each I think.
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Old 06-23-2008, 06:41 PM
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The seal surfaces on these shafts are worn, and sleeves for them are going to cost $64 per shaft. I checked Moser and they want $160 per for new shafts, so I'll stick with what I have. But I will chuck them in the lathe and check for runout on the flange before I spend that much on them. Good pointer. Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:45 PM
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You don't think fixing them the Redneck way will work?

Fill weld the grooves on the shafts, then make them round again with a hand grinder?



He He - a few days ago a friend at a 4x4 shop showed me a "Redneck Repair" - a driveshaft - the U-joint ears had been broken off - so someone brazed the ears back on - with brass rod that barely stuck. When my friend told the guy he needed a new driveshaft, the guy got mad!

He guy said he already fixed the shaft and U-joint. He brought it in for a vibration! Called him a crook trying to sell something he didn't need!

Go figure -- It takes all kinds.
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:33 AM
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ya jim.. axles don't need to be that straight for driving.. i used to think that way also.. until i cut an axle tube in half.. to cut out 3 inches.. then welded it back together and then cut two tubes length wise.. then put them on the top and bottom of both axle tubes.. and welded them on.. fulling welding them.. (the oringinal tubes were pretty rusted where the spring perches were and it was thin tube to begin with)...

i thought to myself.. this will never be straight..

but i ran it in my orange jeep.. when it was my daily driver.. drove some 40 thousand miles on it.. just kept an eye on the rear tires.. and they wore even.. so after about 15 thousand.. i rotated them.. and kept the rotation cycle at around 5k miles.. and i could never tell if it was straight or not.. but it drove straight... tires wore evenly.. that's all i asked for..

the axle was a semi-float dana 60 35 spline with a detroit in it..
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