Oil Pressure

[RRich]

Try straight 30 WT, or even 40 WT Racing oil.

And try some STP, it does not really "thicken" the oil or raise the viscosity, but it does leave a protective film that will help.

Both may prolong the life before you rebuild it.

The stuff they put in oil to make it multi-vis isn't a lubricant anyway.

Funny how it exhibits the clicking and signs of low pressure the gauge is suspected.

[Shatteredglass]

Originally Posted by WILL

These engines hold 6 quarts of oil also, not 5 like a lot of cars. Make sure you have enough oil first before dropping the pan.

ok i will make sure i just went with the dip stick

[Shatteredglass]

be any other signs to look for it seems to still have power and seeems to sound ok when idiling

[Jim_Lou]

Get a mechanical pressure gauge. You can probably get one at a parts house for around $20. Remove the sending unit and install the mechanical gauge in its place and go for a drive. After the engine is hot lift the hood and check the pressure at idle. We want to make sure we're looking at a pressure problem and not an instrument problem.

[RRich]

Let's use a little logic here:

In his first post he said when it first starts it holds about 35-40 lbs. (Normal)
When it warms up it drops at idle to 0 or near 0, and he can hear "ticking." It didn't do that during the winter when it was colder.
Now that the weather is warmer when he revs it a little it goes back up to 35-40 and the "ticking" stops.
He's using thin multi vis oil 10-30wt.

Question - has the oil been changed since winter? The additive that "thickens" the oil to 30wt from 10 wears out or evaporates - it doesn't last forever. It may just be that the oil is staying at 10wt.

Use good quality oil, not off brand mixes.
I won't use anything but Valvoline myself.
The cheapies often blend several brands to get what they want. The additives in the several oils are not always compatible = sludge time!


When changing it, put in 6 qts - then check to see that the dipstick is correct.

It's extremely doubtful it's a gauge issue - a defective gauge that "reads normal" at higher speeds, but reads too low "at idle" and "only when it's warm" rarely causes the engine to "tick." The gauge is supposed to be an indicator and have no influence over the engine. If it does, send it to the Smithsonian, they like extreme rarities.


Try some real oil, not multi viscosity - 6 qts of straight 30 or 40 wt.
Face it, the bearings and clearances are worn a little, the engine's not new, it may have been run very hot at one time, or run with low oil, or may not have had oil changes when it should have. It's not dead yet, just getting a little weak. Just give it a little help.

Adding a can of STP will help it last even longer.

[Shatteredglass]

should i stay with the oil same or use different in winter monthes?

[Jim_Lou]

A bad gauge can't cause a problem, but one that reads ten or fifteen pounds low under all conditions it can cause us to chase the wrong problem.

[RRich]

True Jim - but if it was reading too low, then the high reading, the 35-40 would be off too. If the gauge was too low by 20, then the high reading would be 60 - a bit much.

Even if the gauge wasn't working, or it didn't have one at all, the engine symptom of:
"ticking at idle"
"when warm,"
"with thin oil"
"sounding fine when revved slightly"
"and over 100,000 miles on it"
points to oiling problems.

Yes, it's better to use the appropriate oil viscosity for the season than expecting the oil use it's own intelligence to know how thick it should be. It's the old "one size fits all" syndrome. Ask your wife how "one size fits all" works for her.

Has it been changed recently or is it the same oil used during the winter??

[Shatteredglass]

It is the same oil that i changed in the winter going to be changing it soon cause it has been 3 monthes since i changed it like i say i used 10w30 one thing that seemed different was when i changed the oil it seemed like the oil was thin water but maybe it is me not knowing much about oil is all? Like i said it only started this when it is hot 30 mins usally almost like after oil heats up it is to thin so the 30w for summer is worth a try before getting an oil pump not sure how the motor was done before i got but it does not smoke or leak any that i see. and i drove it for 45 mins this winter and i dont recall seeing that guge drop or hearing the ticking. and does not do it all the time with gas so high i hate to just let it run to see it do it until ineed to go somewhere lol

[RRich]

Betcha 30wt, or even 40 will do the trick.

Interesting about oil pressure -
Oil pressure itself doesn't do anything. If you were to plug off the passages so the oil couldn't flow, the indicated "pressure" on the gauge would be fine, but everything would self destruct.

Low oil pressure itself isn't a problem, but it is an indicator that things aren't right. If something(s) is worn too much, it leaks pressure more than normal. It's not the leak that's so bad, it's the starvation of other things that aren't getting enough. Things protest by "ticking" or making other terrible sounds.
Oil that's too thin leaksd out too much.

Oil not only lubricates (puts a thin layer of oil between the parts preventing metal to metal contact) but it also cools the components. It carries the heat away and distributes it throughout the engine.

The way we measure pressure instead of flow it's just an indicator that something may be amiss.

Actual engine symptoms, like sounds, are the real indicators.