95 jeep wrangler problems

[Timber]

I'm still haveing problems with the jeep, I have changed every thing I know to change, but now it want start.
As I go to start it the check engine light want come on, and I can leave the switch on for several minutes then the relays will start clicking several time and then the check engine light will come on then it will start .
Can some one please tell me what this could be.
I have changed the ground wires they were a mess so now I'm not sure what else it could be.
I have looked at the wiring diagram and can't seem to find the problem.
Maybe some one could tell me what is wrong.
I also have a miss when it is running so I'm wondering what that could be.
HELP!!!!!!

[LEVE]

What code is being set when the CEL comes on?

[Timber]

The only code im getting is 33 the air cond. code and it dose'nt have air on it.

[Timber]

I'm getting codes 12,33,55 and that's when the check engine light is on.

[Timber]

LEVE do you have any idea what the problem could be.

[LEVE]

Not yet... so let's drop back to basics.

• The start motor turns the engine,
• but it won't fire up.
• Prior to this problem, the engine had a miss when it ran.

Is that correct?

If so.. what is missing:

• Fuel
• Air
• Spark
• timing?

More information is needed. At this pont you're really saying ... "Its broke."

[Timber]

Originally Posted by LEVE

Not yet... so let's drop back to basics.

• The start motor turns the engine,
• but it won't fire up.
• Prior to this problem, the engine had a miss when it ran.

Is that correct?

If so.. what is missing:

• Fuel
• Air
• Spark
• timing?

More information is needed. At this pont you're really saying ... "Its broke."

Sorry LEVE, that I wasn't so clear, earlier.

The Jeep has been running OK for a week or so, but it still had a slight miss under a pull, and sometimes just idling. The only thing that was peculiar was sometimes when you went to start it, the check engine light wouldn't come on, but if you keyed it off, and then back on, everything was fine, and it would crank right up?

Mainly concern with the miss at this point...I tried some new plugs, which it needed badly. But afterwards the miss was still there?

Then after watching it run, during the night I saw some spark jump from the coil wire to the dipstick tube.

So I replaced the coil wire, and spark plug wires the next day...but still there was a miss?

So I tried a new distributor cap, and rotor button...still the miss prevailed?

So out of confusion, I went ahead and replaced the coil...the miss was still there?

So a friend was over Friday night, and we cranked it up, and was listening to it, but we couldn't figure out the miss, except maybe it was fuel related.

Saturday morning I got up determined to figure it out, but then the check engine light wouldn't come on at all, it would turn over but not crank?

Then finally Monday when I had more time to look at it, I started jiggling wires around under the hood, while the fiancee set inside watching for the check engine light.

Suddenly we heard the ASD start clicking, and after about 6-10 clicks the check engine light came on, and the fuel pump kicked in. Then she tried to crank it, and it fired right up?

Well after some research, I found where someone...had cut some ground wires in the main harness along the firewall, and had grounded them to the firewall? I don't know why anyone had done this?

I tried to clean them up, then reconnected them with solder, shrink wrapped them, and re-ground them to the firewall in hopes, that I could at least accomplish whatever the person had, that had done this???

But now the problem is it still doesn't always let the check engine light come on right away, and sometimes while I'm scracthing my head, the ASD starts clicking, and then the check engine light comes on? You guessed it...then of course it'll fire right up then?

I hope all of this really confuses you now, as much as it has me!

NOW this is going to burst your bubble??? I'm not at home right now, and the fiancee just sent me a instant message...saying..."It's working fine now!!!"

Oh well, I guess we'll see what happens from here?

[LEVE]

You've made progress, even though it doesn't seem like it. One of the areas that can fail an never throw a code is the fuel pump. You saw that when you repaired the harness. IMHO, the problem would be found by looking again at the wiring from the fuel pump up to the main harness loom. I'd be inspecting every inch, as well as pulling apart connectors and seeing how the pins look. Also, connectors can fail where the wiring goes into the molded plugs. It is a favorite place to break, and you'll never see the break due to the insulation covering the broken wire. Look for pinched wiring, wiring that doesn't "Look right" and wriing that may be routed incorrectly. Start there...

[Timber]

Thanks for your last response LEVE. I will check everything again, like you suggested.

There is a couple of more things that I need to mention. One that I forgot to mention, and another that I just noticed, and I'm wondering if it is the problem?

First of all, I'd forgotten to mention that since we got the Jeep running again, a couple of weeks ago...the voltage gauge always shows about 15 volts when it's running?

I haven't had a chance to figure out whether or not there's something wrong there, or it's just a faulty reading gauge, but no codes have showed up about it?

Second of all, this may be the problem of it all...the ignition switch itself???
We have had some new keys made for it, but have been using the old original key.

When we tried the new keys the check engine light seems to come on much better? So I'm beginning to wonder if it is just a ignition switch going bad?

Thanks so much for your help.

[RRich]

It may not be it, but I've seem similar.
Make sure the battery is in good shape - maybe swap it with another good one to be sure. Side terminal batteries give lots of trouble like that.

The relays clicking, the no start, then sometimes start - I've seen it when the battery cable(s) or connections were bad.

Use a voltmeter, turn all accessories on. Put the voltmeter from engine ground, right on the engine itself, to the battery negative post - not the cable clamp, but the post itself if it's a top terminal. If it's a side terminal right on the head of the bolt.
Have someone crank it - or try.
The voltmeter should read no more than .1 volt during cranking. If higher, you have a high resistance in that cable or connections somewhere - use the voltmeter to find it.

Same test on the positive cable - from the big terminal on the starter to the post itself or bolt.

When the voltage goes low to the "system", for some reason the relays and gauges start "ticking" about once a second.

Try it, let us know.