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Old 03-28-2007, 08:31 PM
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Default Rear Locking Hubs

I have seen several jeeps with Rear Locking Hubs in JP Mag and I would like to know any info on the purpose and contacts for parts. I have a 1953 M38A1 with all original drive train and I flat tow the vehicle. I am assuming the rear locking hubs are for towing purposes, any help is appreciated. Feel free to email me @ galeyautobody@yahoo.com. Thanks!
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:44 PM
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Sounds kind of kinky! Rear lock outs! What are people thinking!?

Seriously, I dropped my sub to JP a while back, when they refused to feature anything home built or upgraded stock parts in lew of all aftermarket kit parts for advertisers,
AND,
They started wasting perfectly good full color pages on a hooker instead of running a Jeep article.

I don't mind looking at hot chicks, but they should be on a jeep with a good tech article, not just some fat desk jocky that couldn't get laid in a whore house pretending to answer questions as a chick...

The hard part was knowing people actually fell for that and I had to be on the same trails with them!
There is a sucker born every minute, and JP finds around 208,000 of them every issue...
---------------------------------

As for the rear lockouts, try a google search, that should produce something.
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Old 03-28-2007, 10:16 PM
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First you have to have a full floater axle or a conversion.

I think the Warn kit for the Model 20 comes with the lockouts. I have the Summers Bros. full floater kit and bought lockouts for it. In addition to towing, with a twin sticked t-case you could drive in front wheel drive only if you had a rear axle go bad.
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7Taz View Post
First you have to have a full floater axle or a conversion.

I think the Warn kit for the Model 20 comes with the lockouts. I have the Summers Bros. full floater kit and bought lockouts for it. In addition to towing, with a twin sticked t-case you could drive in front wheel drive only if you had a rear axle go bad.
All true and the reason most use the lockouts (at least around here) is in case you break the rear axle you can drive in 2wd without spinning the broken pieces inside the case. Warn also makes a part I believe called "hub fusers" or something like that these replace the lockouts with a solid piece of metal(unshure if steel or chrome-molley or what). If you want full float and don't need the hubs get the fusers they are said to be designed to fail first, and they are a lot cheaper than axle shafts, gears, locker, etc.. also they are very easy to change on the trail.
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Old 03-29-2007, 01:27 PM
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Ok, I have the AMC 20 Warn Full-Floaters, and a twin-stick, let me clarify this post which has some mis-information:

1. I don't know what other axles they provide, I have only seen the Model 20. It provides a few things; The ability to flat tow with nothing engaged (Including odometer), full-float so if you break an axle, the tire won't take off, and the ability to pseudo run in front wheel drive.

2.
Quote:
with a twin sticked t-case you could drive in front wheel drive only if you had a rear axle go bad
Yes, and no. My Dana 300 with twin sticks adds the ability to run FWD Low, and RWD Lo in addition to the standard 4wd hi/lo and RWD High. The Dana 300 can be modified and the stops taken out to allow FWD Hi, however, by taking the stops out, it can also allow Front Hi/Rear Lo and vice versa, which means the Dana 300 TC will go BOOM! So be careful with this Mod. With the full -floaters, you can drop the rear driveshaft, unlock the rear hubs, and run in 4wd high (essentially FWD) with nothing spinning in the rear.

3.
Quote:
Warn also makes a part I believe called "hub fusers" or something like that these replace the lockouts with a solid piece of metal(unshure if steel or chrome-molley or what). If you want full float and don't need the hubs get the fusers they are said to be designed to fail first,
You are talking about 2 things:
Hub Fuses and Hub Flanges.

Hub Flanges are Replacements for Hubs, they are stronger, but do not lock/unlock. They are engaged full-time. You need to go back to Hubs to free-spin.



Hub Fuses:
These are replacements for the Hub Clutch ring within the hub. They are designed to break before a U-joint and are easier and cheaper to replace than a U-joint (or axle). However Warn does not make these, nor recommend them on the full-floater kits. And these are definitely not recommended with lockers, as they let go so fast they can bust the gears in your lockers very easily.



4.As an aside, I found if you have full floaters and a locker/LS in the rear, you may not get the second hub to fully engage due to the small amount the axle needs to turn to line up. You will need to get the Jeep in a slow, sharp turn (Axles spinning at different rates) to engage the 2nd hub while the jeep is moving. Do NOT force the hubs, they will break (Ask me how I know ) Or you can Jack up the rear to do the same thing, if you are by yourself.
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Old 03-30-2007, 01:14 PM
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I believe your jeep should have the 10 spline Dana 44 in the rear, if it does you should be able to use a set of spindles and hub assebly from a Dana 25 or Dana 27 front axle. You will have to have a set of axle shafts made, if it was me I would also pull the carrier and change out the side gears to run shafts with a higher spline count or install a locker. If you search the internet you should be able to find some info on this upgrade.
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Old 03-30-2007, 01:49 PM
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For more information on full float kits for eary CJ's check out Early CJ-5.com > Tech > Axles they have 2 writeups one for the warn kit and the other for a homebrew option. I am currently using the infromation from the home built kit writeup and other sources to build a HD AMC 20 Full Floater. However, I will be using Drive slugs not locking hubs.
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:50 PM
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My thinking is a stock 1953 M38A1 will have a Dana 27 rear? There are several options, least likely is a bolt on aftermarket kit. I tend to try and make things myself. I think I would get the Dana 30 front locking hubs, spindles, brakes and such from a 1976 are newer CJ. Then I would machine the spindles to fit the rear axle housing. See my photos. I would get a stock two-piece axle cut and resplined.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Spindles 1.jpg (74.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg Spindle Modified axle housing.jpg (78.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg Spindle Modified axle housing 1.jpg (82.5 KB, 1 views)
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Old 03-31-2007, 07:08 PM
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I don't know about 53 but my 55 M38A1 has a dana 44 rear.
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Old 03-31-2007, 09:01 PM
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Thanks Will,
I guess I should of "Googled" the rear axle of the 53. According to my "Google" information the 53 has a tappered axle Dana 44 (two piece axle design similar to the AMC 20 rear axle). I'm thinking the 53 likely has 19 spline axles. Maybe there are bolt on aftermarket full floating rear locking hub kits for the 53.
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