I don’t see a problem with the way the weld is done. I’ve seen a lot of welds in tension or shear support a lot of weight. We hang complete cars and trucks from not much more. Trains run on rail butt welded together. If this scares you, take a look at the chain you’ve been using to hoist your engine. You guys weld those threaded plugs in the end of a piece of tube for a tie rod and think nothing of it.
Weld can be very strong. I’m not a welder so I’ve never taken the test but as I understand it, the job certification test goes like this. Two pieces of steel bar are laid on a thinner plate with a gap between them. I believe the bars are 1 x 4 bar and the gap is one inch. The welder taking the test fills the gap with weld. The plate is ground off the back and the piece is placed in a bender. The piece is bent at the weld and it must bend without cracking. But what would be the point of having a test that anybody can pass? So, one concern is who did the welds?
Would I use them? NEVER! There is a much bigger problem you've missed.
You're talking a weld test in it's most simple form, but just for general info the gap would most likely never be 1". Weld certifications can be written just about any way an entity wishes to write them, but certain practices are normally followed and huge gaps are not usually one of them. Anyhow...
You are talking a weld test in it's most simple form and that's a butt weld of two mild steel plates which are then given a bend test. Foundry grade "junk" steel. The kind of stuff you find on the rack at home depot. Good for fabbing together odd bits of stuff like benches and what not but it's crap to machine and it's crap for any real structural strength. Definitely not for something that would be subjected to shock loading.
Yes a weld CAN be strong, but as I said it depends on who did the weld and HOW the piece was treated after the weld is complete. Those welds may or may not have 100% fusion at the joint. Those parts may or may not be of the proper steel for the application.
If it's not the right steel then they just flat out aren't strong enough.
If they ARE the right steel and they WERE CNC machined as claimed then why weren't they machined from a single billet?
If they ARE the right steel and they WERE cnc machined and welded for some unknown reason were they annealed and relieved after the fact? A proper weld of the proper material would require this.
I look at those pieces and I see junk even IF the weld was done properly. There is no reason for them to be a fabricated component rather than a single billet. Look at the side view where they are lapped and there is practically no thickness at the joint. Not even as much as the base material. Add to that the issues you illustrated around the mounting holes and I wouldn't have given the seller the scrap value of that steel.
His buddy got taken. Maybe or maybe not on purpose it's hard to say. It's almost scarier if it was NOT on purpose. That implies that the fabricator actually thinks he knows what he's doing.
I suppose it's possible, but that still doesn't make it right, plus if you look again at his original photos you can see where there was some 3rd axis work being performed. The ears aren't the same thickness throughout their length.
Again, while "possible" I guess, even if the machine was only 2 axis cnc, the Z axis would at least be open for manual control. They could have manually set the cut depth. I don't see ANY reason why this supposedly CNC'd part should be a fabricated piece. I'd almost bet they were one piece, cut and welded for some reason.
I suppose it's possible, but that still doesn't make it right, plus if you look again at his original photos you can see where there was some 3rd axis work being performed. The ears aren't the same thickness throughout their length.
I just took another look at those pics and it seems the section I thought was 3rd axis work may have just been grinding. It still doesn't change things though. Even on a 2 axis cnc (though I don't know why you'd bother!), the 3rd axis would still be open for manual depth of cut adjustments. Hell, if it weren't you might as well just use a torch to cut your steel!
YUK!!!!!!!
Toss them in the trash. About the only way that weld would hold up is if the part was heat treated afterwards...otherwise, you are looking for a failure just waiting to happen....
What is the intent of the extension off the other side? Are they trying to put the drag link behind the axle?
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yeah I did notice that also taz. I'm guessing they were painted because they are mild steel, i know the ones I put on the buggy were some sort of billet. I think they were ground for caliper clearance. Are you talking about the tapeder holes being 2 axis? I don't much much about axis's, i'm guessing they might have been done by hand, i think they are all slightly different sizes meaning done by a manual reamer. They were cheap and there's a reason why...
I was pointing to the lack of metal beside the holes. I’m sure you know, that uses cone washers. I had to look it up to find out why those holes were tapered, I knew the rod ends didn’t go there. When the cone washers are tightened it will likely split the thin metal beside the holes and bust the other sides. If it doesn’t split when you tighten them, it will be a question of when, not if.
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