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03-12-2007, 02:39 PM
| | Stranger | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: mn usa
Posts: 20
| | full door cracks under wing windows hi im new here bought a 90 yj 6 cyl 5 spd both doors have inch long vertical cracks under wing windows is there something causing this i can prevent?
another question is jc whitney the best price on weatherstripping you dont wanna ask what the dealership wanted
also it kinda rough starts then after running it starts to run high idle 2000rpm or so but it will come down off this sometime and i can feel it in the go pedal does anyone know whats happening here
it also lugs under at stop signs and i have to feather the throttle to get goin seems odd my brother has an 95 xj 6 cyl ho 5spd and he leaves in second gear
thank you for any and all input i tried the search option but it was asking me to login and it led to a dead link | 
03-12-2007, 03:08 PM
|  | Super Moderator | | | Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Belleville, Illinois
Posts: 8,481
| | Welcome to the board!
The cracks in the door are caused by metal fatigue. The forward channel for the glass runs from the top of the door to a spot near the bottom of the door. Every time the door is opened and closed, and every time the body flexes a little, that window channel pushes against the door skin. Eventually that causes the metal to weaken and crack.
You need to do two things; Take the inner panel off the door, drop the glass down, remove the forward channel, and then weld up the crack.
When you put it back together, adjust the bottom of the window channel inboard. You need enough room between it and the top of the door skin to slip a business card between. That will keep the crack from starting again.
Or you can just adjust the channel. That will slow or stop the spread of the crack.
J.C. Whitney is usually at or very close to the lowest price you'll find. The quality of their products is spotty; some items are good and some aren't. I got a replacement shift boot from them that didn't last two years, but I got several other items recently that have been fine.
Be aware that at least one board member had their credit card information pirated several years ago. That has probably been fixed by now. I've been buying from them infrequently for forty years and never had a problem.
Your driveability problems are common. Someone with more experience in that area should chime in soon. If not, you may need to start another thread with "90 YJ driveability problems" as a title. It's usually better to run a separate thread for each unrelated problem.
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EVERYTHING's easy for the guy who doesn't have to do it. B. Dash Fabrication
Last edited by Jim_Lou; 03-12-2007 at 03:11 PM.
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03-12-2007, 03:28 PM
|  | Addict | | | Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nebraska
Posts: 536
| | As said the door craks are common in most jeeps. And that is the best fix for the problem.
As for the best prices I tend to order from Quadratec adn other than taking 5 days to get a part, Ive never had a problem. But I am too cheep to spend the extra $ in shipping...lol
I will warn you to use caution when ordering from 4wheel parts. Ive had real bad luck with them and even worse customer service.
Good Luck | 
03-12-2007, 08:44 PM
|  | Veteran | | | Join Date: May 2003 Location: Nebraska
Posts: 1,496
| | You may also try Summit for your parts. They've been carrying more and more Jeep stuff and have a flat handling rate of $10.95 on most things, with FREE shipping.
You might try searching Carter BBD or Carter Carb for you driveability issues. It likely needs a cleaning or rebuild... and you just as well take the time to do it yourself, cuz the problem will likely be re-occuring. 
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Is this the only hammer you've got?
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03-12-2007, 10:02 PM
| | Enthusiast | | | Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Vancouver USA
Posts: 215
| | I suffered with the BBD carburetor once myself. I had to baby it at a stop light and still it would die a lot and acceleration was sluggish. I bought the Weber replacement and things only got worse. I know others on this board have had good luck with them but I didn’t. Even Weber was never able to adjust it properly so I threw it in the trash and walked away from my $400.
I think that you may find one of these two options helpful. If you are subject to a visual inspection at your local DEQ to get your plates renewed you may have troubles however.
First is to perform a Nutter Bypass. The "Nutter" Bypass
This option eliminates all the smog stuff. I have known of vehicles that have passed DEQ with them (non visual tests).
The second is to change the intake manifold to an Offenhouser and then bolt on a Holley carb. This option obviously cost more.
(Intake) Holley High-performance Intake Manifold : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories
(Carb) Holley Carburetor : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories
Welcome aboard.
Kriss
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1978 CJ5, AMC 401, CJ T18, Scout D300, 2 1/2" Lift, Locked Front/Back
Last edited by Saddle Tramp; 03-13-2007 at 10:08 AM.
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03-13-2007, 02:55 AM
|  | Old Hand | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: S. CA
Posts: 1,053
| | The below pic is of my door...84 CJ's had the same problem....I welded a strip across the stress area....
For stock items try Krage. They carry most of the stock stuff....great prices and even better customer service.
Hi idle? Have you checked to make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? Check all of you vacuum hoses and make sure the bolts on your intake and exhaust manifold are tight. If you have the PVC solenoid, make sure it works correctly.
What size tires do you have? Anything over 31" and stock gears will cause the same problem you are having trying to start off...
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AKA DDawg16
84 CJ7, SOA, 5.7LTBI, 4L60E, 32"x11.5, 4.10 gears, F/Det, R/ARB
89 Cherokee, 4.5" Lift, R/D44, 31"x11.5
Both Never Finished
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03-13-2007, 07:57 PM
| | Stranger | | | Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: mn usa
Posts: 20
| | thanks guys
awesome responses
just what i was looking for
I like this board | 
03-13-2007, 09:14 PM
| | I am in the CPU | | | Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: The Palouse
Posts: 12,629
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