Best fixer upper jeep

Pete88YJ · #11 10-13-2006, 04:26 PM

Everyone is so politically correct. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I won't flame you Dawgy, don't worry. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

I will give my side though: I have a very high level of comfort when I take my YJ out. I carry a spare mechanical fuel pump, which mounts on the side of my block with 2 bolts. I can change it easily. It runs probably $20 at the parts store.

I carry a spare GMHEI in the parts box. I can replace my entire ignition system easily with one bolt.

It couldn't be simpler.

No IAC, no TPS, no CTS, no CPS, MAP, MAF, ....whatever they all are. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

I'm not saying my carb system is 'better' than FI, as I know it is not, but I think it is simpler, and easier for me to work on, and that works for me.

Pete

Jeeper99xj · #12 10-13-2006, 04:29 PM

If you want super simple fuel injection GM TBI is where it's at but you arn't going to find it factory in a jeep. You can carry spare everything in an amo can including a puter and distributor.

jdoggmoney · #13 10-13-2006, 04:49 PM

Texas is as good a place as any to find rust free Jeep's sitting along those seldom driven two lane highways stretching for as far as the eye can see. I saw several candidates along the road when we drove down to Abilene two years ago.

I agree with Larry if you either find one that is still running, or at least needs little to get it running good. Or if you are looking for something to swap a small economical late model drivetrain into. Otherwise I would vote CJ.

First things first, take a couple of week days off work, load up the wife and kids (if applicable) and roadtrip to some of those far away places in your state. Drive around each small town you come to and I bet you find a jewel of a Jeep waiting for you to rescue it. I can't explain how, but you will know when you've found the right one... it's just a Jeep thing. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

#14 10-13-2006, 04:55 PM

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What do you want to use the jeep for? Daily driving? Big rocks? 2 tracks inthe woods? Deep mud?

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I would be using it more for back and forth to work at first, but will want to get into offroading soon after upgrading the jeep. No rock climbing or hard stuff, but a nice mud pit once in a while soubds fun! But just a nice ride in the backwoods exploring is more my style.

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What's your mechanical ability? Have you tinkered much with a wrench?

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I once replced an engine in our family car. I didn't tear the engine down to its components but I guess I would have some one rebuild the engine but I can bolt everything on.

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What tools do you have/ have acess to? A couple hand tools? garage full of mechanics tools? Welder and fabrication tools?

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I have a bunch of tools. Looking into an air compressor and air tools to helkp the process. But welding may be off in the future though. Just not right now.

TiminMb · #15 10-13-2006, 05:13 PM

As mentioned, I'd watch for rust, as its the hardest point of deterioration to remedy. You could either buy just about any jeep that catches your fancy and replace some or all the drivetrain, or try as best you can to find one with a factory drivetrain that is already ideal for your purposes. Personally, I'd look for a rust free YJ with a 4.0L HO engine. Did they make any YJ's with Dana44 rearends? If so, that's something I'd look for as well, as rear axles can be a weak point. So were some YJ trannies. They are all great vehicles, but they never made any that were perfect. Something was always a compromise.

Jeeper99xj · #16 10-13-2006, 06:01 PM

It sounds like you don't have a problem jumping in and fixing stuff. I would strongly suggest taking a welding class at your community college, i think welding skills are almost required to own and midify a jeep with some issues. Because you don't have a welder but arn't that scared of mechanical issues i would look into a rust free jeep that "needs some work". Something that maybe needs a motor or transmission and the owner doesn't want to pay a shop to fix it.

I will warn you jeeps arn't the most practial daily drivers. If you think the off road bug is going to bite hard i would get a daily driver and a wheeler. Lot's of people start out wheeling their daily driver and then it gets to the point where the jeep either gets too beat up or too radical to drive every day. I much prefer wheeling in the woods when all i have to worry about is dragging my junk back to the trailer instead of how i'm going to make it to school on monday. Just about every one i wheel with has a trail rig and a daily driver or is in a situation where they can get by without a daily driver (we are mostly college students).

#17 10-13-2006, 06:53 PM

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damn DDawg.. I don't think I've ever seen you misspell so many words in one thread

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I wrote the post from the airport bar in Wichita, KS.....I was NOT on my first beer....and I was eating a salid while I typed.....thank god for expense accounts........

Saddle Tramp · #18 10-13-2006, 11:58 PM

What I would do is look for the BEST vehicle that meets my needs and is available for the money I have to spend.

Here is what I mean by that. First, what do you plan to do with this rig? Daily Driver? Rock Crawling? Mudding? Etc?. (The other posts have given you a lot of other ideas about what you may want to do and/or to think about.) Write all your thoughts down on a piece of paper with the most important things at the top and include any attributes that you want to have on your jeep just because you do. Now you should have a better idea of what you want or at least, want to do with your new jeep.

Next look (and I would look at all years, CJ, YJ, TJ) for a rig that is set up closest to what you would need (or just want because you do) to do to the jeep for the kind of driving/wheeling you want to undertake. You are looking for the most “goodies” already on the jeep for the buck. All these neat parts cost a lot of money and take a lot of time to install, however when you go to sell your jeep with all these hard earned parts, you will never, ever get your money back, with very, very few exceptions. We build jeeps for fun, not investment.

In my case, the current CJ5 that I have was purchased in 1993 for the grand total of $3,500. The guy I bought it from had paid $3,500 for it a little over a year or so earlier, and then during the 12 months prior to selling it to me invested another $9,000. The only parts on that jeep that had not been redone were the motor, transmission, top and seats. I know this to be true because he gave me all of the receipts.

Before you start thinking bad things about me for “stealing” this guy’s jeep, I have been on the selling (bad) side of deals as well. I had a 47 CJ2A that I boxed the frame, dropped in a Chevy 350, new tranny, and a host of other drive train parts only to get my original $1,500 back when I sold the jeep a year after all the work was done.

Good Hunting!

Kriss

jeepete · #19 10-14-2006, 04:44 AM

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I like the CJ series but do not have any preference. I want a jeep that the parts are readily avialable and a jeep that is easy to work on. Thanks

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I would be using it more for back and forth to work at first, but will want to get into offroading soon after upgrading the jeep. No rock climbing or hard stuff, but a nice mud pit once in a while soubds fun! But just a nice ride in the backwoods exploring is more my style.

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My gut feeling is you should go for a 91 to 95 YJ.

There are some good points raised in the other replies. Parts are readily available for just about all SWB Jeeps. The question you raise as to which model is easier to work on, well, that depends on the type of work needed and the condition of the particular Jeep needing the work. You seem to want one that needs fixing. (I wonder; Is that because you want to do the work or because you are short on funds?) Since you are looking for a "fixer upper" I assume you will not need it for daily transportation right away.

I think a better question would be which models to avoid. I say, avoid CJ's with quadratrack (unless the jeep is in overall excellent condition and just too good of a deal to pass up), avoid YJ's with Peugeot transmissions (87 to mid 89). Avoid YJ's with NP 207 transfer case. Avoid buying any lifted Jeep you cannot test drive, some are not done well and are unsafe on the hwy, others use poor quality parts and have a bone jarring ride. Based on your criteria, I'd say avoid modified Jeeps altogether unless you do a lot of research and know what to look for.

Avoiding Jeeps with rust problems is a no brainer but here I mention it again just in case. Check around the body mounts especially on CJ's. the ones right in front of the rear wheel well are a good place to start. Often the area will be covered with mud so be sure to check carefully. If that area is rust free as well as around the base of the roll bar then you probably found a good body! Look closely at the frame as well. I've seen old CJs with like new frames and late YJ's that were rusted through, you just have to look.

Any stock 4wd Jeep will fit the bill for the wheeling you describe but be aware, once the bug bites the desire to upgrade and try more and more challenging trails can be addictive!

I recommend using the experience available here and on other Jeep Sites by asking about each potential deal you find. Supply pictures if you can, especially of modified Jeeps, for members to comment on and maybe point out things you may not have noticed. If the Jeep in question is modified take pictures of the mods. Some folks think they are getting a good deal on a modified Jeep then after the sale find out they have a rig that needs to be completely redone to be safely driven on the road. An experienced eye can tell you a lot from just a few pictures! Good luck with your hunt!

Saddle Tramp · #20 10-15-2006, 12:44 AM

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I've seen old CJs with like new frames and late YJ's that were rusted through, you just have to look.

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72 through 75 CJs with a V8 were prone to frame cracking behind the front wheels. The frames were made out of U-Chanel (not boxed like 76 on) , and I have see some terrible patch jobs. Earlier CJs were made from a U-Chanel as well, except the Renegade in 70 & 71 which were boxed, but the weight of the smaller motors seemed to not be as harsh on the frames.

Kriss