It's like bleeding the brakes. Top the resivoir off, Find the bleeder screw down at the cluch, crack it open and you should be able to gravity bleed it. if you have compressed air you can spray it acrooss the tip to speed up the process. then lock it back down.
I looked down by the slave cylinder and did not see a bleeder. I pumped on the pedal for several minutes and finally started to get some restriction from the fluid and could shift gears.
I will look better tomorrow to see if I can find a bleeder.
IIIIt is a tj, there is no bleeder, Disconnect it at the bottom and let some run, then pump the heck outa it, It will bleed out. Least that is how I did the one that I have done.
Have someone hold gentle pressure against the clutch pedal, crack the line at the clutch cylinder.
Make sure you close the line before your helper lets up on the clutch pedal.
Do this a couple of times and you should be in business.
There is no bleeder.
And no *good* way to crack the line.
The line is held in with a roll pin.
Disconnect the line at the slave.
Fill the master cyl and let it drip out the line.
Being careful to avoid getting any dirt etc. into the cylinder!!
Fill the slave cylinder manually (works best if it is off and on the bench) depress the rod slightly to purge all the air. Hold the cyl at a slight angle with the line port pointed up. Refill.
Connect the cylinder to the line and reinstall the cylinder.
Pump until the last of the air purges itself.
That *usually* gets the job done.
Sometimes if you get an air pocket you just can't get out, you have to manually force the slave pushrod back into the cylinder to force the air back to the master to let it purge. This can be a PITA - so I hope you get it w/o having to do so.
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional fluid under normal circumstances. The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 21). An indicator ring is provided on the outside of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm removed, fluid level should not be above indicator ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before removing the cap.
INSTALLATION
Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and connecting
line are serviced as an assembly only. Components
cannot be overhauled or serviced separately.
Cylinders and connecting line are sealed units.
Removal/installation procedures for right and left
hand drive models are basically the same.
(1) Be sure reservoir cover on clutch master cylinder is tight to avoid spills.
(2) Position clutch linkage components in vehicle.
Work connecting line and slave cylinder downward past engine and adjacent to clutch housing.
(3) Position clutch master cylinder on dash panel.
(4) Attach clutch master cylinder actuator to pivot pin on clutch pedal.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder
attaching nuts to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.).
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching nuts to 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body and transmission clips.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect clutch interlock safety switch wires.
Shows ya what they know... Buy a new one! Damned new fangled plastic pieces of crap! I'm wondering how this happens:[ QUOTE ]
The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs.
INSTALLATION
Clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and connecting
line are serviced as an assembly only. Components
cannot be overhauled or serviced separately.
Cylinders and connecting line are sealed units.
Removal/installation procedures for right and left
hand drive models are basically the same.
[/ QUOTE ]
[snip]
[ QUOTE ]
Shows ya what they know... Buy a new one! Damned new fangled plastic pieces of crap!
[/ QUOTE ]
That is because you are reading the FSM.
It is only available as a complete assy from the dealer.
Fortunately - the aftermarket has responded to this and the individual parts are available - unless you need the line (hose)
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I'm wondering how this happens:[ QUOTE ]
The reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs.
[/ QUOTE ]
Some one 'splaine it to me!
[/ QUOTE ]
As the disc wears the pressure plate travels farther to do its thing. So the release fingers come up higher, which pushes the release fork farther back at rest, which pushes the slave push rod farther back into its bore, which pushes more fluid back into the master reservoir, which raises the level in the chamber.
But, I bet by the time I finish typing this you will have thought about it for a second and figured that out LEVE.
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CLUTCH HELP 
Linear Mode
